Clutch and slave write up.

[RollOut]

Saw a request for one of these, so here you go.


Tools I used to make it easier.
Jack, Jack stands and blocks, Impact driver, Drain pan, Drip pan, Drop light, Creeper, 1/2" Breaker bar, 21mm socket, and a 21mm Box end wrench.

Tools you will need.
3/8 ratchet, ratchet extensions, swivels, Torque wrench, 7mm, 10mm, 12mm, 11mm, 13mm, 15mm sockets, 18mm and 21mm.


1. Start by removing the neg terminal from the battery. Then remove the center console with a 10mm & 7mm, and the lower shift boot with the 7mm to expose the shifter. Using a 12mm, remove the shifter.
2. Raise the front and rear of your car. Support with stands, or what I did was buy 4 cinder blocks and put them under the front tires 2 high to help get it way off the ground for clearance. Cost me about $5.50 @ Lowe's for all 4.
3. Drain the trans fluid by removing drain cap on the passanger side of the trans with a 3/8 ratchet.
4. Use a marker to mark the drive shaft at the diff so you can put it back in the way it came out. Then, with a 11mm, remove the 4 bolts retaining the u-joint and use a rubber mallet to knock free the DS. Remove by sliding the yoke out of the trans and place aside. (This is why we drained the trans, to save from making a mess on the floor.)
5. Using TWO 21mm, one for the bolt and one for the nut, break loose the bolts securing the torque arm to the rear end. Using a 15mm remove the retainer from the transmission. Pull the torque arm towards the rear, then remove and set aside. My exhaust didn't need removed, but it will make for a lot more room if you do. If you don't remove the exhaust I recommend completely removing the front torque arm mount.
6. Moved your floor jack under the trans and jack up to support the trans just in front of the cross member. Using a 15mm, loosen the trans cross member bolts, but don't remove them. You just want the rear end of the trans to drop a little to give you some room to work.
7. Remove all the electrical connectors from the trans, and remove the quick connect from the slave and secure everything out of the way. Then using a 15mm remove the 8 bolts holding the trans to the bell housing. The top bolt on the right will be the hardest.Your trans is now ready to come out.
8. Now completely remove the trans cross member, and begin lowering the trans slowly while moving it towards the rear of the vehicle to free the main shaft. Once its close enough to the ground, set it down and the hard part of the removal is now done.

9. Using a 13mm, remove the 8 bolts holding the bell housing to the motor and remove the housing.

10. Use the 13mm to remove the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate and clutch to the flywheel. Be ready, the pp weights a good bit and is coming off when you remove those bolts.
11. Use a pilot bearing puller to remove the pilot bearing.

12. Using a 15mm remove the 6 bolts in the middle of the pressure plate to remove it.

13. Your this far in there, might as well replace the rear main seal.

14. This was a little bit of a b!*tch. What I did to finally get it out after fighting it for 30+ mins was to take a small drill bit and VERY CAREFULLY drill a hole in the seal, then screw a small screw in just a little and use that to grab a hold of. Worked like a charm. If you do this be careful not to hit the crank journal or the mating surface for the RMS with the drill bit or screw.
15. Clean the crank journal and mating surface with some brake clean. The new RMS will come with a white plastic thing in the middle. Don't remove it, it will push off when installing the seal and will keep the lip from folding under. Rub a little clean oil on the OUTSIDE of the new seal, make sure the right side is facing out, and press it in. You can use the old seal to tap it fully in flush if needed.


16. Install new pilot bearing be tapping in flush with a 19mm socket.

17. Place your flywheel on the crank and line up the bolts. Make sure to use some RED loctite on these bolts. They need to be torqued staggered in stages. The order of tightening is 1,4,6,2,3,5 and should be torqued at 17, 34, then 74 ft lbs.

18. Clean the flywheel with a clean rag and brake clean to get all the grease off of the clutch mating surface. Then install the clutch onto the flywheel with the alignment tool. Make sure the right side is facing the flywheel or your clutch will not disengage.

19. Clean the mating surface of the pressure plate with the rag and brake clean as well before installing. After I got the pressure plate on I lifted a little on the alignment tool before tightening down the bolts any to make sure the clutch was lined up with the pilot bearing. Those tools are made of plastic and bend fairly easy. You don't want to get all the way to installing the trans just to find out its not lined up right. Install and torque the pressure plate bolts. Same thing as above here. Use RED loctite and torque in the 1,4,6,2,3,5 order at 20, 40, then 54ft lbs.

20. Install your bell housing crisscrossing bolts during tightening. Don't have to use any loctite here, but I did. Torque to 35ft lbs.

21. Install the trans and cross member. Torque the trans bolts to 37ft lbs. Make sure you get all the electrical connections plugged back into the right spots, and plug the master into the slave.
22. Install drive shaft and torque bolts to 26ft lbs.
23. Install torque arm and your done under the car.
24. It's easiest to fill the trans through the shifter opening since it's already off. Just pour it in slowly.
25. Run a bead of RVT around the edge of your shifter and install. No need to torque, just get them good and snug.
26. Install you shifter boot, and console.
27. Bleed the hydro's to get all the air out of the system.

28th and most important step!


































































































Open a cold beer and enjoy. Your done! Don't forget to break in your clutch per manufactures directions.

[RollOut]

Still uploading pics. Will add more later.

[peteo101]

i vote sticky