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Thread: Whats nitrous like?
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04-26-2007, 12:25 PM #41
I'm doing the HSW 150 wet kit, the install fun begins this weekend. I've been told that as long as my timing isnt advanced (aka still stock) that I can run as-is without retarding it at all.
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04-26-2007, 12:38 PM #42
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04-26-2007, 12:38 PM #43
Yes you can but it will actually build more power on the bottle if it's retarded slightly.
I would also recommend you run a AutoLite AR94 plug with the gap closed down to 0.040".
I don't care what the directions tell you for the wiring....... Wire the solenoids so you are switching them on the ground side.
That means you'll wire the relay opisite of normal. The solenoids will have constant power and the relay will be switching a GOOD ground to complete the circuit.
This is for Eagles post about the 150 shot I forgot to " " it.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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04-26-2007, 01:05 PM #44
Tuner-
That raises a great question. I remember you saying that in so many posts, but I can't picture in my head how to wire the relays that way. Would you have a diagram handy by any chance? Because you're right, the diagrams all show the relay switching the + side not the - side...
Thanks!
-Eagle
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04-26-2007, 02:09 PM #45
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04-26-2007, 02:32 PM #46
Thanks man!
-Eagle
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04-26-2007, 05:36 PM #47
Quickly this is it.
# 30 is going to chassis ground NOT batt. power
# 85 will go to Batt + FUSED
# 86 will go to your arming toggle switch and the other side of the switch will be chassis ground...... So when you flip the switch it would complete the circuit. If you are using a WFO switch that wire would go in the middle.
It's hard to explain here on the computer but if you are using both a WFO switch and a hand held button like I always do that button would be wired in this circuit. So when you hold dox=wn the button it is completing the ground to # 86
# 87 will be wired to one of the wires off the solenoid
And the other wire needs to go to batt. voltage on the solenoids. You can also fuse this wire for safety if wanted but not a must seeing that you fused #85
You can wire them up and check your wiring by pushing the button or buttons and holding the relay first you'll hear an audable click then you can also wire to solenoids and hear and feel them actuate. You won't hurt them by cycling them to chaeck you wiring to make sure they work.
DON'T OVER CRIMP TERMINALS LIKE SOOO MANY DO!! IT NEEDS TO BE CRIMPED BUT WHEN YOU OVER CRIMP YOU ARE BREAKING STRANDS OF WIRE AND DAMAGING IT.
AFTER YOU CRIMP TERMINALS PULL ON WIRE AND MAKE SURE YOU MADE A GOOD CONNECTION.
HEAT SHRINK ALL CONNECTORS ALSO!!
USE EXTERNAL LOCK WASHERS UNDER ALL GROUND CONNECTIONS.(They are the washers with a seriated cuts....They cut into the metal when tightened.
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04-26-2007, 05:45 PM #48
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
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- Rockford, IL
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Silver- 2000 Camaro SS
THANK YOU FOR HIJACKING MY THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
jk. idc its pretty much on topic anyways (not like it matters to me)
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04-26-2007, 06:40 PM #49
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04-26-2007, 06:42 PM #50
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04-26-2007, 07:07 PM #51
so what w oil do you recomend i use? rite now im running 15w50 moble.. i have pretty good oil pressure... with an ls6 ported oil pump..bout 40 i think it is in the middle? at idle.. and any rpms above idle it goes up... i wanna spray my car really bad.. especially cuz i hear my cam will love it.. its an ms3 on a 113lsa
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04-26-2007, 08:47 PM #52
That oil should be just fine for you.
I would say to get a good view of your cylinder condition get that thing up to running temp. and pull all the plugs rig the throttle wide open and do a compression test. As long as you don't have any weak cylinders I wouldn't think twice about blowing 150+ all day.
Yes that 113 will take full advantage of the bottle.
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05-10-2007, 11:50 AM #53
What Hp Levels Have You Seen People Use The Giggle Juice On There Stock Bottom End And Still Be A Dd?
1998 Trans Am Vert, M6, Soon to be full of goodies......
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05-10-2007, 12:16 PM #54
Mine is a DD and I'll soon drop in the 150HP jets. I've heard people out here spraying more than that on their DD too... haven't dyno'd it yet, but I'll suspect I'll hit something in the 400RWHP range.
-Eagle
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05-10-2007, 12:56 PM #55
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05-10-2007, 01:05 PM #56
My Goal Is To Have H/c Package By Itself To Be Around 400 Rwhp And A 125 Hp Shot Of The Good Stuff. Will It Hold Up?
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05-10-2007, 01:18 PM #57
I Know With Blowers And Turbos The Cam Can Play A Big Difference. Is Spray The Same Way?
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05-10-2007, 02:28 PM #58
What all does the H/c package include.....? 400rwhp would be posiable with bottle only!! Yes it sould handle that EASY.
Yes the bottle likes a nice wide LSA (114-112) but at the sametime we have motors that are on a 106 and blowing 175 also.
To get the MOST benefit yes it needs that to haelp scavange all the liquid oxygen out. Is it neccesary no. Can you benefit from it yes.
And from the all motor stand point it is going to run way better on the motor with that 108-106 cam at the sametime.......
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05-11-2007, 11:33 AM #59
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Age
- 45
- Posts
- 18
Red- 1998 Pontiac Trans Am
When I sprayed I used the NX Wet System shooting 150; I remember the first time was like hell yea!!!!!!!!!!!!! Had about 5-6 to runs. It was for track use only. Refills were around $40 for a 10 pd bottle.
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05-11-2007, 11:57 AM #60
as long as you use all the safety crap....ngk tr6 gapped plugs, wot switch, fuel pressure safety switch, window switch, good gauges (not mechanical) {fuel pump and retard timing for over a 125 shot in some cases}...you have to be retarded to blow your engine
01 m6 z28 - lid / lt headers / 3' ory w no cats / flowmaster catback w 3' dmh e-cutout / nelson pcm tune
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