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Thread: axle bearings?
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05-17-2010, 04:09 AM #41
Little trick I learned for seals over the years messing with GM axles.. Once you have the seal driven in flush with the houseing. Take a small piece of 2x4 say 5in. long.(a piece with no knots a right sized socket works well too) lay it centered flush against the seal and housing and give it a few good hits with your hammer in the middle area of the wood. This will serve to slighty sink the seal into the housing and the center where the actual seal is will slightly bend inwards. Don't go nuts whacking it. But the slight inward bend will actually help tighten the rubber seal around the axle shaft, and drift the seal in so that the leading edge or the outer lip of the rubber seal is not touching any non-machined surfaces... The seal should NOT exceed axle end play...... Don't forget to lubricate and turn/rotate the axle shaft (I use bearing grease just on the seal mouth) as you're inserting it through the seal. This will ease it in so not to pop the round seal spring out of the seal. If the spring comes off the seal, it will leak and you'll be doing it all over again soon... Stopping when the seal outer ring is just flush is a mistake many people make by accident. You won't find it in repair manuals either, least non that I've seen..
Last edited by Smittro; 05-17-2010 at 04:49 AM. Reason: added to
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05-07-2016, 10:33 AM #42
Black RTV usually works well so long as both surfaces are clean and free of oil. Lay down a bead and allow it to set for a bit before installation. Just don't get crazy with it as you do not want the excess to squeeze into the assembly as you tighten things back down.
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08-05-2016, 05:39 PM #43
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- Sep 2005
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- neverland
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red- 99 formula
I wasn't looking forward to pulling out the axles, but with the right tools from Autozone (Slide hammer, bearing puller and bearing driver set) it was a breeze. I knew I should have set the bearings in the freezer overnight, but the first one went in. The second was in the freezer for an hour or so before installation, and it was easier to drive in.
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03-25-2020, 04:06 AM #44
If I had to guess, it's the pinion bearing...they tend to hum....when axle bearings go out (not often), they will squeal...
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12-31-2022, 06:01 PM #45
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- Apr 2012
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BLACK- 1998 WS6, ASC BUILD #206
Good Day All and HAPPY NEW YEAR, (in less than 2 hrs here)
I have searched the site a bit and while I find some info I'm still in the dark a little.
I have a 98 T/A WS6 that I pur new. At this time, 77,000 miles.
For some time now I have been hearing what I believe to be a wheel bearing going bad on the right rear. It's rather loud now.
My issue is; after searching for videos on replacing the bearing it seems that there are some units that have a wheel bearing HUB Assy
that can be changed by removing the caliper, rotor cover and 4 bolts.
THEN, I see other's that indicate the need to remove the axal assy and follow the yellow brick road for that repair in the center hub.
As most are aware, this is a much more detailed replacement.
Is there a short answer to which repair I am looking at other than actually removing the wheel and starting the tear down procedure?
I'm not looking for the lazy way out, I'm looking for how to tell what type I have for the parts order before starting the repair.
Thank you in adv for any help / info you can offer.
RoyThis T/A WS6 is Factory modified by ASC at the Lachine facility on March 13, 1998 and is identified to be
ASC build #206.
We took delivery from Pontiac dealer April 7th, 1998.
ASC Factory letter provided from them.
Love of money is the root of all evil.
Send $19.95 for more information.
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