Will this all be compatible? (theoretical/planning ahead.)

[cwilliamsws6]

Thank you everyone for the good stories and advice. I was wanting to try to do everything at once but if I have to wait I will, I want to make sure I do everything right. I'll keep asking questions as they come up and re-tool my list accordingly.

[cwilliamsws6]

Here is my last question for now. After the build is finished, would it be best to
1) try to start the engine at my house and drive it un-tuned to the tuning shop
or
2) start it long enough to drive it up onto a trailer then tow it to get tuned?

Thanks!

[SMWS6TA]

Depends on what you get done. A radical cam untune can damage the pushrods and valves.

You may get away with an idle but rev to high and....

Also ALWAYS confirm psuhrod length. No matter if it comes in a package deal with heads and cam. It's always a smart thing to do and in the end cheap insurance. CompCams sells a pushrod checker for $20.

[cwilliamsws6]

I am thinking of completing it in 2 stages.

"Stage 1":
The 3600 converter, 3.73 gears, SLP airbox lid, oil pump, headers and (possibly) a cat-back system

"Stage 2":
The camshaft, lifters, rocker arms, pushrods, dual-springs, LS2 timing chain, 42# injectors

[SMWS6TA]

Move the oil pump to do with the Cam and timing chain. Reason being you have to remove all that to get to the pump so do it all at same time. UNLESS you know the pump is going bad.

If you're doing the pump with the motor still in the car. You will need to remove at least the drivers side engine mount, raise the engine about an inch in order to get to the oil pan bolts that are blocked by the k member. You need to lower the pan but do not remove it. Just loosen the bolts enough to drop the pan about an 1/2 an inch. To be truthful this is the hard way to do an oil pump change. If doing all that you're doing I would honestly just pull the motor and have an easier time accessing all and more importantly being able to put on proper torque specs on the pan and heads.

With a lift plate you can pull the motor from the top if you don't have access to a lift. I removed my nose piece, radiator, drive accessories, intake, transmission. With 2 ppl you can do all that in a day tops. I think I can pull a motor doing all that in about 4-5 hours taking my time. But I've also had practice on my bird. If you go this route pics and tag labeling go a long, long, long way.

Here's a homework assignment. Get this book. It helps a ton.

https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-L...s1+motor+books

[Redphoenix1998]

I agree. Do the oil pump when you do stage 2. I like the direction you're taking because now you're doing it the smart way. Stage 1 you'll feel a nice bump in power. Drive it around and see how you like it. Get used to the new output of the car. Stage 2 will be a little learning curve because you'll be putting down more torque than you may be used to. My recommendation is between stage 1 and 2 is to get a good set of tires. I've run M/T Drag radials and love them. I'm testing a set of M&H drag radials and they are nice right now for my setup. As far as your tuning question goes I always tow my car over. What you can also do is remove the PCM and ask the tuner for a basetune with your specs so you can drive it over to them if you don't want to opt for the trailer. You're stepping up your injectors and your fuel input. If you drive it on the stock tune you will be changing plugs at the dyno or something may go kaboom.

[Redphoenix1998]

Oh another tip, when you go to the dyno bring a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up and keep an eye on the pressure. You should maintain 55 psi and on WOT drop no more than 45-48 psi. If you do your stock fuel pump is not keeping up and you're risking detonation and leaning out when you need the most fuel. Fuel pumps are not bad. Get the racetronix hotwire kit with the 255 pump it will drop right in. But at the dyno hook up a fuel gauge. If you lose fuel pressure or dip below optimal stop tuning, bring it home, and figure out what's going on before your money goes kaboom

[SMWS6TA]

Oh another tip, when you go to the dyno bring a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up and keep an eye on the pressure. You should maintain 55 psi and on WOT drop no more than 45-48 psi. If you do your stock fuel pump is not keeping up and you're risking detonation and leaning out when you need the most fuel. Fuel pumps are not bad. Get the racetronix hotwire kit with the 255 pump it will drop right in. But at the dyno hook up a fuel gauge. If you lose fuel pressure or dip below optimal stop tuning, bring it home, and figure out what's going on before your money goes kaboom

Agree. A wideband gauge would also be good to have as well.


I got mine from Glowshift gauges. So far I like them, very accurate and have a bunch of options.

On the fuel you can get a simple on that hooks up to the fuel rail for cheap ($50ish) and not worry about running wires inside the cable and mounting a gauge pod.

[cwilliamsws6]

Sounds and looks good, thanks

[oldmanZ28]

To OP,you never stated why you want to do this,intended goal and use. dragstrip,streetfighter ?

[cwilliamsws6]

Probably mostly a street car with occasional trips to the strip. Basically a "weekend warrior" (?) I think is the correct term.

[oldmanZ28]

So you're gonna do
"Stage 1":
The 3600 converter, 3.73 gears, SLP airbox lid, oil pump, headers and (possibly) a cat-back system

then possibly do the drag strip to get times and then do stage 2 ?

[cwilliamsws6]

Most likely yes I'd be doing that.

I don't have any further questions at the moment so I'll stop bugging y'all with this hypothetical until the project actually begins most likely.

[SMWS6TA]

No trouble, ask away. It's why this forum is here.

Here is where we have most of our tech stickies. Only issue is that thanks to Photobucket being assholes most of the pics are not showing. But there is still a lot of good info. I'm going thru the threads I've done and trying to link in the pics that I have using another site. There are even a couple of engine build threads as well.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/technic...tickies-79083/

[oldmanZ28]

You're not bugging us,fellow Ohioan !

[cwilliamsws6]

Nice, thank you! Also if you use Google Chrome there is an extension available that somehow bypasses the Photobucket "toll" and makes the images show up. It's called "Photobucket embed fix".

[speedyWS6]

Also if you use Google Chrome there is an extension available that somehow bypasses the Photobucket "toll" and makes the images show up. It's called "Photobucket embed fix".

Mmmmm.... Thanks for this tip and i will be looking at this right away!

[SMWS6TA]

no kidding....

[SMWS6TA]

Holly shit it works!!!!

[Redphoenix1998]

Holly shit it works!!!!

LMAO!!!!! The light has been seen!