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  1. #81
    Junior Member
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    RED
    1998 Camaro

    With a 4L60E on the V6 woud I be better off changing the bellhousing and input shaft or just getting a 4L60E off a V8 for this set up?

  2. #82
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    White
    2008 Hummer H3

    There's no difference in the 4l60e between the two v8 or v6 other than bellhousings.

  3. #83
    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Quote Originally Posted by cade75 View Post
    Any info on the oil pickup tube, from comparing the pans it looks like I would not have to change it but I am not sure.
    Yes the oil pan will be different as well as the pcikup tube. If your dead set on getting a motor from a truck (nothing wrong with that) try to get an lq9 6.0 found in escaldes, denalis etc rather than a 6.0lq4. The lq9 came with a higher compression ratio an full floating pistons (the lq4 didnt have them until 04 iirc). The price difference in the engines shouldnt be too much. Also the wiring harness, pcm, front accessories, and intake are all different in a truck and you will need to find these from an fbody to complete your swap i suggest you browse ebay or other boards and classifieds to find them. Its a little easier to just buy a donor wrecked fbody because that way these things wont nickel and dime you to death but I cant fault you for that lol it looks like a cool build.

    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    There's no difference in the 4l60e between the two v8 or v6 other than bellhousings.
    The trannys WILL NOT work sorry, the v6 fbody tranny uses smaller clutches and valve body routings for the v6 and will grenade pretty quick behind an ls1 not only that but the input shaft and torque converter are also very different so it wouldnt even work even if you got rid of the bellhousing. To the OP when your at the yard see if they have any 4l60e's laying around from the v8 trucks any of those should work nicely.

  4. #84
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    2008 Hummer H3

    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post

    The trannys WILL NOT work sorry, the v6 fbody tranny uses smaller clutches and valve body routings for the v6 and will grenade pretty quick behind an ls1 not only that but the input shaft and torque converter are also very different so it wouldnt even work even if you got rid of the bellhousing. To the OP when your at the yard see if they have any 4l60e's laying around from the v8 trucks any of those should work nicely.
    Nothing to be sorry about you are correct.. I dug into it a little futher today and they are in fact different.

  5. #85
    Junior Member
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    RED
    1998 Camaro

    I am sad to report due to some financial issues the family member I was getting the car from has found a buyer for the V6 camaro. I am not to upset because they need the sale, and I was getting it for free. I cant tell everyone how much I appreciate all the advice and tips this has been the most help I have every recieved on a site like this. I am going to save what I have aside and I am hoping that it will be in the near future, but if not I will be sure to check in and post the buy. Thanks everyone.

  6. #86
    Veteran pajeff02's Avatar
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    Black & Blue
    '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban

    Hope it works out for you. Lots of good clean F-bodies still out there for the picking.

  7. #87
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    Red
    96 firebird

    I’m looking into doing a similar swap but but having trouble finding an aftermarket kmember there’s so many… any help???

  8. #88
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    If you're going with aftermarket you can't go wrong with UMI Performance K member. As much as I praise UMI I'm not sponsored (unfortunately). I just love their products. Worth every penny, quality and fitment is top notch. I didn't have to resize holes or make header clearance like some of the other choices out there.

    If you get one, some pointers if you're going to do it yourself. Harbor Freight sells an engine support bar that will make this job so much easier. Be prepared to replace your bushings if you're reusing the stock upper and lower a arms. In fact I strongly suggest you do. Chances are they need to be replaced. Lower stock k member slowly becomes there's hidden bolts that the brake lines attached to that you need to free up. The rack and pinion - flip the bolts when you go to install them. It makes it easier to take it out in the future when it goes out. Otherwise you'll have to lift the engine to get the bolt out.

    Also this is a great time to update/upgrade the engine mounts. I recommend going with poly over stock.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

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