I'm a Oil Junkie

**GatorSS** · 07-30-2006, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by ocshaman

Please explain where you get your information. Many people have tested their Havoline, and have found that it's not "pure crap". In fact, it was non-pure crap enough to go 12000 miles in a 5.3 truck that was beat on, and have enough non-pure crapness to have what the tester called a good 1000 miles left. 13000 on a cheap dino oil isn't what most would call pure crap. Search bobistheoilguy.com for the used oil analysis on the truck.

I wouldn't take everything 'bobistheoilguy.com' says as absolute truth. Bob may have some good info, but, in short, Bob ain't the oil guy he thinks he is.

**Sarge** · 07-30-2006, 03:34 PM

Havoline dino is probably the most robust oil you can buy in the dino flavors. Nice shot of moly in it. I'd pour Havoline in before I would Mobil 5000 that's for damn sure.

**ocshaman** · 07-30-2006, 03:55 PM

Originally Posted by GatorSS

I wouldn't take everything 'bobistheoilguy.com' says as absolute truth. Bob may have some good info, but, in short, Bob ain't the oil guy he thinks he is.

It has nothing to do with who Bob is or what he is about; it is the numbers (read empirical information) that come out of the sumps of similar vehicles. In other words, it really has nothing to do with Bob, and I don’t see how Bob came into play with this, but the fact that the information that is better than probably anything any person can tell you on this board, is posted on his website.

I feel safe to say this because 1 UOA can tell you infinitely more than my brother’s uncle’s cousin’s mechanic’s mistress’s uncle ran Pennzoil for 10000000000000 miles in his VW, so it will work for you.

**Sarge** · 07-30-2006, 05:56 PM

BITOG has really gone downhill. One must have all their internet filters turned up high when reading threads there anymore. Lots of trolls pimping their particular oils....bashing and childish bullshit big time over there now. Too bad.
I read lots of UOA's and use the VOA section quite alot...other than that...it is just Mobil1 is great or Mobil1 sucks threads out the ass....I stick with mainly my own damn UOA's and those of folks with bowtie motors that I know here locally that utilize UOA's....dyno runs...engine tear downs etc. that I witness or participate in hands on....these things I share when I respond to many oil related questions...versus some string on BITOG.

**lonewolf37** · 07-30-2006, 08:25 PM

In order to separate fact from opinion I suggest you send oil samples to Blackstone Labs. They perform a complete oil analysis and tell you if you engine has any problems. I am changing my oil at 5,000 miles and Mobil ! is showing the least wear.

**ErikElvis** · 07-30-2006, 09:54 PM

I have from what I hear a crappy fram filter on my car now. Can I swap it out w/o makining and oil change or will it just be a mess? I normally use purolator but it bought what was handy at walmart. I drive the car maybe once a week.

**Sarge** · 07-31-2006, 04:47 AM

Originally Posted by ErikElvis

I have from what I hear a crappy fram filter on my car now. Can I swap it out w/o makining and oil change or will it just be a mess? I normally use purolator but it bought what was handy at walmart. I drive the car maybe once a week.

No problems. Just have a quart to top off after the change.

LT4Vette · 11-19-2006, 05:39 AM

I have read nearly all pages and got a lot of good info here. Sarge, I have a 2000 SS with nearly 90k miles on it. The car is completely stock and is never raced. I have been running 5-30 Mobil 1 since I bought it early in the year.

My complant is that I have the piston slap noise and what sounds like rocker noise until I drive it for about 30 minutes. Also, I have more oil pan leaks since I bought it and don't know what oil was in the car when I bought it. I live in central Florida so I rarely see 40 degrees at winter.

Should I go with a 10-40 oil to solve all these problems or a 0-40? My concern is a going with a 0-40 will possibly make the oil leaks worse. I don't want to replace the oil pan gasket at this time. I would prefer to stick with a dyno oil for cost reasons. Recommendations?

**Sarge** · 11-19-2006, 06:33 AM

Sure....I would AutoRX her.....it is not a solvent....but gently cleans and restores seals and gaskets while it removes varnishes and sludge..... http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html .....so often we all think a quality oil is cleaning ( and they do) however this stuff is amazing and does a top notch job at restoring leaking gaskets and seals without all the solvents........and is the only product that cleans your ring packs and restores compression....you'll think you have a new engine...no marketing bullshit here.....
after a clean/rinse with AutoRX of your ride I would consider Castrol GTX 10-40 or Havoline 10-40 with a maintenance dose (3oz's) of the AutoRX...lets run this mixture for 3-4 oil change intervals.....then if you wish you can go back to a good synthetic....Now I'm gonna be called a Mobil1 basher...however I base the following statement on multiple UOA's here guys....Mobil1 5-30 shears and is too fricking thin for our motors.....I would consider (after the above regimen) a Pennzoil Platinum 10-30 or a Royal Purple 10-40......both easily available (RP is at NAPA's now and PP is everywhere and a great value).....for your engine in Florida.....I think you will see a few things after all is said and done...and I am very confident here....you will have a smoother running engine getting better mileage and making more RWHP than you remember....2ndly.....the piston slap is what you are describing....you'll never get rid of it....the piston skirts are too damn short and slap the side of the cylinder walls until the walls are coated with oil then it dies down....PP or RP will greatly reduce this "slap" because of superior cling characteristics over Mobil1....give it a shot....any questions or comments please fire away....

LT4Vette · 11-19-2006, 09:12 AM

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have any experience in LTx engines? I am looking for a recommendation on my new engine for the Vette. It is a 96 383 LT4 engine, solid roller, forged internals, etc. Street/strip

I am looking for break in oil and procedure as well as after. I suppose I need to get you the bearing clearances to advise me, right?

**01blackbird** · 11-19-2006, 11:03 AM

Just a little info if your willing to do the work. GM has a revised piston with a Teflon type of coating on the sides of the pistons to stop the piston slap. The part # is 88984245. No matter what oil you use, it won't stop the slap and eventually the cylinder walls wear in a concaved pattern.

**Roadrunner** · 11-19-2006, 01:57 PM

I've not read anything on Valvoline Synth. I tried it this last oil change and it has quieted my engine noise down. Plus ther has not been the need to add oil so far after 2500 miles. Any comments on this brand?

**Sarge** · 11-19-2006, 02:07 PM

Originally Posted by LT4Vette

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have any experience in LTx engines? I am looking for a recommendation on my new engine for the Vette. It is a 96 383 LT4 engine, solid roller, forged internals, etc. Street/strip

I am looking for break in oil and procedure as well as after. I suppose I need to get you the bearing clearances to advise me, right?

Just overhauled the LT1 in my 25th Anniversary T/A.....
Good 10-40 Castrol or Havoline with a quart of RedLine mixed in for the Moly you'll be needing and the new SM rated oils dont have....once your happy you nailed your valve clearnace

drive it like you stole it.....from day one....
Just dont maintain a steady highway speed for a few hundred miles....vary your speeds as much as you can....I like to (brand new motor)...pour in the above mix....and go out....get up to like 40-50mph and let the engine slow you back down to like 20 mph ( downshifting if your a manual)...yes everyone will think your drunk off your ass....but the back pressure from the engine braking is setting those rings and that is a very good thing...dont baby it....run the above mix for the first 10 hours or so of engine op....then change the oil with the exact same mix or just straight RedLine or equivelant.....by the way...Havoline has a good dose of Moly straight out of the bottle....

**Sarge** · 11-19-2006, 02:12 PM

Originally Posted by Roadrunner

I've not read anything on Valvoline Synth. I tried it this last oil change and it has quieted my engine noise down. Plus ther has not been the need to add oil so far after 2500 miles. Any comments on this brand?

I have it in my Dodge R/T right now. When I see Valvoline Synthetic on sale or in the bargain bin at WallyWorld I grab it. Good add packs.....but if it is over $3 bucks per quart I pass.....it is good oil....fucked up old man aint I? LOL....I always go straight to the oil section at WallyWorld when I go in there to see what is in the discount baskets

NAPA is good about Pennzoil Platinum sales.... recently I got 36 quarts of 10-30 PP for $2 a quart

**Firebug** · 11-19-2006, 02:17 PM

When it comes to oil, Bug has no idea. I should read this thread and learn a little...

**Sarge** · 11-19-2006, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by 01blackbird

Just a little info if your willing to do the work. GM has a revised piston with a Teflon type of coating on the sides of the pistons to stop the piston slap. The part # is 88984245. No matter what oil you use, it won't stop the slap and eventually the cylinder walls wear in a concaved pattern.

Yup...I read that.....Just drop a 408 Stroker Iron Block in there instead...voila...no more slap

GM should be giving those things away for free....dumbasses who designed it should be horse whipped...some oils with thicker film and cling do mute it substantially.....but you are correct....your never gonna eliminate it altogether....

**Sarge** · 11-19-2006, 02:50 PM

You want a real 100% synthetic....killer oil....less than $5 bucks? Here it is.....deal of the century.....
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/RS530.html

LT4Vette · 11-20-2006, 03:28 PM

I spoke with my engine builder and has had a lot of failures with solid roller lifters and synthenic oil. This was 20 years ago when he experienced this and has not used it since. I had my lifters fail and take the engine with it too and I was using synthenic. Doing research on the best brand of lifter I found it interesting that Crower does not recommend it either. The quote below was taken from http://www.crower.com/misc/faq.shtml

Use of Synthetic Oils
Crower does not recommend the use of synthetic motor oils in any racing applications, particularly hydraulic and flat tappet camshafts. The minimum gains in horsepower are offset by the excessive wear to cam and lifter surfaces. Crower recommends Kendall GT-1 (20W50) Petroleum based motor oil in all high performance applications. If your manual suggests running synthetic oil, then do so. We have found, however, that the benefits do not outweigh the costs. For additional information click

Anyway, I don't know if it is true but I thought I would pass that along to you guys.

**Sarge** · 11-21-2006, 04:29 AM

Many synthetics dont have the ZDDP you need with solids.....and it burns em up....Todays SM rated oils dont have it either.....

**tonyjnjz** · 11-22-2006, 03:30 AM

hey sarge..ive asked u a question about my car and oil once before but after reading this post im wondering again...as my sig states my car has a lpe 383 stroker in it....and they recommend a 15-50 weight oil.....as it sits now it has mobil 1 15-50 in it...u recommended me a 20-50 amsoil ...i keep reading about what your saying about your car ..and its a bigger monster than mine and your running a 0-30 weight oil???? i understand it gets to moving parts faster on cold start up...but is an oil this light good for an engine with all forged heavy parts??? my car sounded funnny when i was running 5-30 m1 when i first got it..glad i wrote an email to lpe to find out they want 15-50 in it.......do i want a heavier oil or a 0-30 to keep wear down on start up???????? confused after reading what u use......thanks sarge