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Thread: Replacing Ignition Lock Cylinder
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12-04-2009, 03:52 PM #1
Replacing Ignition Lock Cylinder
My security light is on all the time, but the car starts. Once every week or two, the car won't even turn over, just turn the key and nothing. I'll wait a few seconds and then it will start. I don't need this problem troubleshot. I don't need or want to disable the VATS......I need to know if anyone has replaced their own ignition cylinder without taking it to the stealership. I am going to replace my ignition cylinder. Period. Has anyone out there replaced the ignition cylinder themselves?????
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12-04-2009, 03:53 PM #2
I tried looking online for you, but didn't have any luck. Subscribed. I am interested on knowing how to do this also, just for the hell of it.
Good luck man.
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12-04-2009, 03:58 PM #3
Smittro posted this in the other thread for you:
*diconnect batt*
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove turn signal arm.
3) Remove keys
4) remove buzzer switch
5) put key in and turn to the "lock" possition
6) remove lock cylinder retaining screw
7) Disconnect the pass key connector, and remove retaining clip from housing cover
8) Pull the harness through the column.
9) Reverse to install new one..
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12-04-2009, 04:16 PM #4
Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.
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12-05-2009, 06:54 AM #5
I thought it would be pretty involved, but was hoping that it wouldn't be this intricate. Thanks for the information, guys....appreciate it.
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12-05-2009, 02:41 PM #6
how soon are you gonna be doing this? soon i hope. would be great if by chance you felt like doing a step by step with pics.
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12-06-2009, 02:00 PM #7
At this point, this is my only car that's running, and I don't have a garage. If I get the Camaro running, I would be more apt to tear into this one. This ignition lock cylinder replacement is going to be a very involved procedure. Step one says remove steering wheel. That means disconnecting the airbag, we've just added a bunch of steps and they all have to be done correctly....the last thing I want is an airbag going off in my face inadvertently!! Sometimes, it pays to pay someone who knows what they are doing instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, so to speak, or, to pioneer a way through the forest, when there's someone who knows where there's an interstate that can get there much quicker. If I had a garage, I would be much more excited about doing this. But when we have temps like 21 last night, I would much rather do it inside with the doors closed and maybe a heater running. If I do it, I promise I will take pics along the way, but my hopes aren't up, I can tell ya that!!!
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12-06-2009, 10:23 PM #8
Correct you'd have to remove the airbag. As long as you are carefull and understand taking your time you can accomplish the proceedure I've posted. It's really not overly complicated @ all. What I posted can be found in a manual for your car, where it states the airbag hazard. However they still go on to tell the average Joe how to remove his ignition switch. I honestly would'nt have posted the proceedure had I though it would put you or anyone else in danger. I would never want that.. I am confident that if you take your time and are weary, you can do the project too. Yes airbags can be dangerous, but they are not that fragile.. Think of it this way if they were easily set off by simply taking them off, they would'nt have placed the horns preasure points on the same panel that covers the bag.. Just don't go taking a hammer to it or start prying on it you'll find the airbag is a seperate package that can be disconnected and simply set aside.. Remember disconnect your batt first..and take your time.. Hope this helps..
Ps. I try to keep in mind that most likely our cars were assembled by an average Joe putting in an agerage day on his/her shift.. Of course they have training but they still work the line and have to keep up with production.. An overly volitile setup would set back production.. With tens of thousands of air bag cars produced each year, they're just moving right along down the line...... Good Luck..Last edited by Smittro; 12-06-2009 at 10:32 PM.
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12-07-2009, 09:57 AM #9
Thanks Smittro, appreciate it man.
I talked to a guy at church last night who is a locksmith. I asked him if he did keys for vehicles, specifically ones with the resistor built in to the key. He said that he did, so, I called him this morning, gave him my VIN and he said he would call the dealership, get the key code for my particular key based upon that VIN, cut a key for my car and see if that fixes the "security" light on the dash. I realize, the lock cylinder is probably worn as well, but thought perhaps getting the key replaced first, might, just might fix it for a little while longer. I only have one set of keys, otherwise, I would use my other key, but only got one set from the previous owner. Depending on the dealership, they will get back to him with the key code, and he will get the key cut and give it to me on Wed. at service. I'll let y'all know if replacing the key has any effect on the "security" light as soon as I find out! I normally would jump at an opportunity to tear into my car and work on her, but with no garage and even less money, I'm hoping this $20 key will fix it.....I'll let ya know.
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12-07-2009, 05:27 PM #10
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12-09-2009, 04:13 PM #11
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Custom Swirly Black- 2001 WS6 M6
Goodluck OP. I just forked up the $240 to the stealership because I hadn't found a trust worthy site like this one. Pics would be a sweet addition!
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12-10-2009, 09:29 AM #12
Well, bad news guys. The brand new key with the brand new chip in it DID NOT fix the 'security' light on the dash. Looks like my options are lessening. Like I said, I don't have a garage, and I don't feel like tearing into it in 23 degree weather, otherwise, I would jump on it like a snake on a mouse. Hopefully it will continue to let me start it without disableing the fuel pump, otherwise, I will be forced to disable the VATS temporarily until I can get in a position to replace the ignition lock cylinder myself. Sorry for the bad news....
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12-10-2009, 09:39 AM #13
Hey, when you outlaid the $240, did it fix your problem? What exactly did they do? Reason asking, I took my car to the stealership after I was having problems with it not turning over, and told them to replace the ignition lock cylinder. They troubleshot and diagnosed the electrical system and told me that there was nothing wrong with the ignition lock, instead, they said there were some loose wires related to the SLP linelock, tightened them up, and in the process, disabled my linelock, and said it was fixed $172 later. Then, the no turn over problem happened again two weeks later. I did not have the security light issue on my dash at that time, but do now, hence my troubleshooting reasons for asking these questions.... at this point, it looks like, from this site, that replacing the ignition lock cylinder will fix both of my issues, the no turning over issue, and the security light on the dash too.
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12-10-2009, 12:38 PM #14
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Custom Swirly Black- 2001 WS6 M6
My security light came on and I couldn't start the car at all (no cranking), something in the ignition cylinder went bad, it wasn't reading the resistor in the key anymore. I had called a locksmith out, the had the tools to bend the contacts within the cylinder towards the resistor chip in the key, so I know it was making good contact. So something disconnected within the cylinder and I just needed a new one. I didn't want to rip into the steering column at the time so I took it up to the dealership and they knew right away what was wrong with it. A $40 part and $200 in labor later, the light went away and she started right up. They said the previous owner probably kept their keyring weighed down with alot of keys and misc b.s., they claim this to be the leading cause of igniotion cylinder problems, but who knows.
Your line lock wasn't working before? And it is now? Why were they tracing your line lock? I'd ask why they were wasting there time with that when it has nothing to do with your ignition system, the reason you brought it to them in the first place.
The VATS, at least I'm sure, won't disable your feul pump, but I could be wrong. It only prevents you from getting power to the starter.
Getting a new key doesn't mean that your igntion cylinder is good. I haven't had luck by simply replacing the key, if any one has had luck with it was because the contacts were dirty, either on the key or in the ignition cylinder.
You could try spraying some contact spray or WD-40 in the cylinder.
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12-10-2009, 02:19 PM #15
The linelock was working before, but in their troubleshooting process, they said the wires were loose which was causing a drain on the circuit. Whatever they did, made the car begin starting again, so, I didn't raise too much stink about the linelock being disconnected, being that the no turn over problem had been fixed. That was more important to me than the linelock working....at the time. Now, I would like to get my linelock working again, but that is another thread. From what I've read, there are two scenarios that could possibly happen when the security light comes on. 1) it will continue to start as normal and months later will not allow starting any longer, or 2) it will disable your fuel pump and not allow a start for 4 minutes while the computer resets itself, then it will start. I realize getting the key replaced was not going to rule out the lock cylinder being bad. I was just looking for an inexpensive way to keep it starting without having to pay to get the cylinder replaced.
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12-11-2009, 06:51 AM #16
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Custom Swirly Black- 2001 WS6 M6
That sucks they charged you to disconnect something. You shouldn't need to look up a thread for fixing your line lock, if it's a wiring issue. Simply retrace then replace, that's all it sounds like to me. Depending on if the switch is a relay or not, shouldn't be more than 3 to 5 wires.
I forgot, is your car your DD? If it isn't you should def. try to change the cylinder yourself. Changing the cylinder can't hurt if you plan on keeping your for a long time.
Another route is the VATS elmination, I don't remember if you said this was an option. It's a quick and very cheap resistor in the proper location, but you lose a security feature. But if someone wants to steal your car, the VATS system isn't going to stop them. This is the link. If that turns off your security light and everything working great, the cylinder isn't working properly.
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04-06-2011, 06:21 PM #17
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- 1995 Saab
Last edited by markyoung; 04-07-2011 at 11:24 PM.
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04-07-2011, 09:57 AM #18
Hey guys, well, after almost a year of having my security light stay on constantly on my dash, I went to the stealership again, and got the security light diagnosis done at the cost of $35. They told me that the reason the security light was on was because I "needed a new ignition lock cylinder and cancel cam replaced". Wish these stealerships would all get on the same page. The one before told me it was not the cylinder, this one said it was. This last one quoted me $505.00 to replace the cylinder. I went to another garage and was quoted $165, which included the cylinder and cancel cam. They replaced it and found the very small wire going from the lock cylinder to the wiring harness was broken, most likely due to the up and down movement of the tilt steering wheel. At any rate, upon startup, the security light went out and startup is 'everytime' now! This ignition lock cylinder does not have the lock out button on it which is nice, not having to depress a button in order to get the key out of the ignition. Finally it is fixed!
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04-07-2011, 10:09 AM #19
Oh, for anyone looking to do this on their own, when you disconnect the battery, you need to wait 45 minutes before disconnecting the airbag. You will also need a steering wheel puller, an icepick with a curve on the end to disconnect wiring down inside the steering column, a good memory due to all the parts associated with putting everything back together correctly and in the proper order. Not impossible, but would have been a challenge doing it out under a tree somewhere. I'm glad I paid someone to do it. I say this because the ASE certified mechanic who did it didn't mind me looking over his shoulder while he was doing it. There is alot to it. Like I said, not impossible to the average mechanically inclined individual, but would be difficult for the novice, and impossible without the right tools.
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04-07-2011, 01:00 PM #20
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NBM- '01 Z28
I wish I would have found this thread as I had the same problem two years ago. I ripped into my steering wheel column and found the wires from the ignition lock cylinder broken. Replaced it and haven't had a problem since. The wires are thin and rub against the steering wheel column everytime you turn the cylinder. It's a piss poor design. I will be doing the VATS bypass at some point but haven't bothered to go out and buy the reistors.
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