WTB LS1 & Need Feedback

**bigpappy** · 01-29-2009, 11:15 AM

I'm looking at a 99 SS M6 in Red w/ Black Leather Interior. It has 110K on it and chrome Torque Thrust II wheels. No Mods at all (except wheels). They live out in the country and probably drove it to work in the city. Only blemishes are a very small tear in the middle of the driver's seat (Not from the usual "getting in and out") and some paint fade on the SS spoiler, but not noticable without close inspection. Is $7000 too much for this car in Texas?

I realize it depends on an endless number of factors, but in general is this way too much?

Thanks
Brad

**00Z28DC** · 01-29-2009, 11:28 AM

Well in general I think its an ok deal so long as they took fairly good care of the car you should fine, but as always try to negotiate on the price the less you have to spend on the car the better and since it has 110k on it there might some regular maintenence that may need to be done due to normal wear and tear.

**SajoR** · 01-29-2009, 12:37 PM

it's an ok deal, but considering if you have a budget, i can almost guarantee you'd find a better deal with a bit more go-fast goodies and much less miles and 02 (35th Anniversary) for about $10k.

Even if you don't want the go-fast goodies, I've seen plenty of pretty much stock LS1s around 70k miles at the $10k mark.

What part of texas are you searching?

**m1a2d3** · 01-29-2009, 12:51 PM

look around a little more prices are falling everyday. seems a little high.

**bigpappy** · 01-29-2009, 01:36 PM

Originally Posted by SajoR

it's an ok deal, but considering if you have a budget, i can almost guarantee you'd find a better deal with a bit more go-fast goodies and much less miles and 02 (35th Anniversary) for about $10k.

Even if you don't want the go-fast goodies, I've seen plenty of pretty much stock LS1s around 70k miles at the $10k mark.

What part of texas are you searching?

I'm in Frisco (just north of Dallas). Some dealerships have some LS1s but they are almost all well over 100K mileage and way overpriced for the mileage.

**m1a2d3** · 01-29-2009, 01:40 PM

if you have to finance might be better off getting a loan at a bank and not having to buy from a dealer

**Durango** · 01-29-2009, 01:48 PM

It's a fair price I paid 7500 for 97miles but new tires brakes and rotors but needs plugs and wires and has original shocks plus it had a cat back. I think I got a fair price but it's very good shape

**Anthracis** · 01-30-2009, 02:18 AM

Its high for California. I'm not sure for Texas. I suspect its probably a hair high. Talk them down...see what happens.

**bigpappy** · 01-30-2009, 07:15 AM

Originally Posted by Anthracis

Its high for California. I'm not sure for Texas. I suspect its probably a hair high. Talk them down...see what happens.

Maybe I should look in CA for an LS1. I love the solo road trip, especially when I can swing through Vegas on the way back and tell the woman I got lost in the desert for . . . . 48 hours.

Thank you all for your input. My last Camaro was a 383 LT1 with stock chassis. I know what I need to know about engine mods, but the chassis is a bit confusing to me. The catalogs might as well be in Greek.

Next I will have to learn what the following parts are & what each does (specifically):
1- Panhard Rod (adj vs. non-adj)
2- Control Arms
3- Upper A-arms
4- Lower A-arms
5- All the different bushings they sell
6- Bump Steer Tie Rod Ends
7- Torque arms
8- K-Members
9- Trailing Arms
10- Subframe Conectors (I know what they do, but weld-on vs. bolt-on?)
11- How low can springs go and still clear the average speed bump?

Anyone that could explain them to a 30-something accountant, please feel free. I wouldn't mind someone telling me (from experience) which they would do and in what order. You know, greatest handling gain first or best bang for the buck first.

Thanks for all your help. If this forum wasn't so . . . tame, I wouldn't admit to being a "chassis idiot".