What stall speed are you running?

[Johns00Z28]

I like to use this cooler on F-Bodys because of it's compact design and is Very efficient. You can get it to where it's placed in front of your small grill so it see's good air flow.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Also Shady you would be making a mistake to NOT have a TransGo shift kit installed at the same time. It will greatly improve tranny life and lower heat due to less slippage.

Does that replace the stock cooler? Is anything else needed, does it hook up to the stock lines and all? I have a FTRA, would there be any issues with that?

[shady milkman]

I like to use this cooler on F-Bodys because of it's compact design and is Very efficient. You can get it to where it's placed in front of your small grill so it see's good air flow.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Also Shady you would be making a mistake to NOT have a TransGo shift kit installed at the same time. It will greatly improve tranny life and lower heat due to less slippage.

thanks tuner this stall shit is expensive as all get out.

[Firebirdjones]

Does that replace the stock cooler? Is anything else needed, does it hook up to the stock lines and all? I have a FTRA, would there be any issues with that?

It would be best to run that cooler in conjunction with the stock cooler (in the radiator) so you get the best of both worlds.

My dilema right now is much like yours though. I am reluctant to half ass install a cooler with rubber lines and clamps. Especially on a car as nice as these 4th gens.

I would much rather have hard lines with snap in fittings like the cooler lines at the transmission,,,or at the very least have some hard lines with flare fittings. Then there is the issue of tieing it into the existing cooler line at the radiator without a cobbled up mess. Would be nice if there were an adaptor fitting (union) to continue the existing tranny line over to the new cooler,,,then have a new cooler line screw back into the radiator. Makes for a nice clean install without cutting any of the existing lines, and less potential for a leak or blown tranny line.
I'm sure there is an issue with the radiator fitting though, it's most likely metric, and possibly uses a rubber o-ring rather than a simple flare. So making a new hard line is nearly impossible. I have been reluctant to dig into mine for all these reasons.

Just a pet pieve of mine to see cobbled up shit with rubber hose and clamps. I'm just not willing to do that on any car of mine.

Sorry, I'll stop rambling now

[LS2Tuner]

It would be best to run that cooler in conjunction with the stock cooler (in the radiator) so you get the best of both worlds.

My dilema right now is much like yours though. I am reluctant to half ass install a cooler with rubber lines and clamps. Especially on a car as nice as these 4th gens.

I would much rather have hard lines with snap in fittings like the cooler lines at the transmission,,,or at the very least have some hard lines with flare fittings. Then there is the issue of tieing it into the existing cooler line at the radiator without a cobbled up mess. Would be nice if there were an adaptor fitting (union) to continue the existing tranny line over to the new cooler,,,then have a new cooler line screw back into the radiator. Makes for a nice clean install without cutting any of the existing lines, and less potential for a leak or blown tranny line.
I'm sure there is an issue with the radiator fitting though, it's most likely metric, and possibly uses a rubber o-ring rather than a simple flare. So making a new hard line is nearly impossible. I have been reluctant to dig into mine for all these reasons.

Just a pet pieve of mine to see cobbled up shit with rubber hose and clamps. I'm just not willing to do that on any car of mine.

Sorry, I'll stop rambling now

Larry, I ALWAYS take steel strap and make my own bracket that mounts to the core support. NO plastic BS zip ties for me. And yes you could do it with high pressure hose and crimped/pressed fittings. Out here we have multiple hose company's. I would take a 1/2 NOT fitting into the cooler to a -6AN male. Depending on weather or not you continue to use the stock cooler I would use a metal union to joint the stock steel line to the high pressure rubber. Haven't had any issue's yet out here in the desert heat.

[Frankthetank]

lol this gonna make me sound like a n00b but what u mean by str?

[Firebirdjones]

Larry, I ALWAYS take steel strap and make my own bracket that mounts to the core support. NO plastic BS zip ties for me. And yes you could do it with high pressure hose and crimped/pressed fittings. Out here we have multiple hose company's. I would take a 1/2 NOT fitting into the cooler to a -6AN male. Depending on weather or not you continue to use the stock cooler I would use a metal union to joint the stock steel line to the high pressure rubber. Haven't had any issue's yet out here in the desert heat.

Thanks, sounds like it could be done. I have always made my own hard lines for the old stuff,,,,but these new cars with their crazy size fittings and fancy snap connectors,,,,I figured rigging up a cooler with a good line setup would be a nitemare.

[shady milkman]

lol this gonna make me sound like a n00b but what u mean by str?

Stall Torque Ratio

[shady milkman]

i am pretty rough with this stuff so someone can correct me if i am wrong...\
exact output torque ÷ exact input torque = str. since SC take the torque the engine makes and multiplies for a short period of time..a high STR is a good. i believe once the car starts to move the str starts to lower really quick..so str is for out the gate balls in your face kind of thing.

[oldmanZ28]

advertised torque stall ratio(let's say a 2:1 for example) is achieved very briefly and only at when the engine is applying it's power /torque against a non-moving drivetrain.As the vehicle launches and torque convertor output RPM aproaches torque convertor input RPM,the stall ratio diminishes to a 1:1 tsr.Foe example,if the engine is cabable of outputting 250 ft.lbs.at 3000 RPM,with the 2:1 str,you would have the trans receiving 500 ft. lbs.As the torque convertor reaches unity,1:1,the trans would be receiving 250 ft.lbs from the engine when it was at 3000 RPM.
Now were talking about STR only,input RPM vs output RPM of the convertor is never the same because of inefficency and is only the same when,as on an 4L60E,the torque convertors' internal clutch is locked due to low torque demand as in freeway cruising.

[LS2Tuner]

i am pretty rough with this stuff so someone can correct me if i am wrong...\
exact output torque ÷ exact input torque = str. since SC take the torque the engine makes and multiplies for a short period of time..a high STR is a good. i believe once the car starts to move the str starts to lower really quick..so str is for out the gate balls in your face kind of thing.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque....htm/printable

http://www.ustperformance.com/docume...rterTheory.pdf

http://www.ecanfix.com/~atdsm/faq_torque03.htm

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Tech..._explained.asp

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/...ml?t=printable


From Yank
"Which converter should I choose for my application?
Typically, you want to choose a torque converter with a stall speed 500-700 rpms below the engine's torque peak. For example, an engine making peak torque at 5000 rpms, a 3800-4000 converter would give maximum ET. For a quick selector guide, press here. To see chassis dyno results of our different converters, press here. In choosing your torque converter, understand that there is no one best converter for all situations. A converter that produces very good results at the track may have reduced drivability in town. Key factors are your planned usage, current and future modifications, and drivability. If your primary goal is increased performance at the track, you will want to select from the higher stall converters, 3500 rpm and up. For mostly street driving, you will want to select from the converters with a stall of 3500 rpm or less. A higher stall converter will be "looser" than a stock converter. Looseness refers to the fact that the converter slips the engine into a higher rpm. The use of higher rpms helps provide greater torque during full throttle acceleration, but it also causes the engine to use higher rpms at part throttle too. Looseness can be demonstrated by comparing the typical in town rpms used by a stock converter and a performance converter. The table below demonstrates the range of looseness. Stock 1600 1600 - 2000 part throttle rpm range Thruster 2800 1800 - 2200 part throttle rpm range SuperYank 3500 2000 - 2500 part throttle rpm range Pro Thruster 4000/4400 2500 - 3000 part throttle rpm range The stock converter requires the least amount of throttle input and will accelerate at lower rpms. The Thruster 2800 is nearly as tight as stock, requiring only slightly higher rpms. The SuperYank 3500 is looser. While under light throttle the car can be driven at below 2,000 rpms, most drivers will be using 2,000+ rpm until lock up. Once the converter locks up (typically 35 - 40 mph), the rpms will drop off to the exact same rpms as the stock unit. The 9" Thruster Pro is the loosest, but provides tremendous gains at the track. Note that the rpm range used in the above example was for a car with 3.23 gears. A car with 2.73s would use higher rpms, while 3.73s would require lower rpms. Looseness is mostly a perception issue. Because the car uses higher rpms, the exhaust note is more pronounced. Cars with loud aftermarket exhausts will definitely notice the increase in exhaust volume, while cars with quiet systems will notice only a small change. Looseness can reduce the feeling of snappy part throttle acceleration. This sensation is primarily due to the fact that a larger throttle input is required. Most people adjust quickly to a looser converter. If you are unsure of whether looseness will be a concern, consider test driving a friend's car before buying a converter. The Stealth Yank 2600/ SLP 2600 is for those who want a low-cost increase in performance without raising a "red flag" with your dealer. The Stealth provides most of its gain below 2600 rpm, ideal for someone looking for a nice boost in 0 - 30 mph acceleration with street tires. The Stealth has great drivability, but offers the least performance gain, typically a .2 - .3 second decrease in the 1/4 mile time. PHOTO The all-new Yank Truck Thruster 2600/Stealth Thruster 2800 converters are not re-tooled or re-stalled versions of the stock GM converters, but a brand new design that is a Yank exclusive! The 278mm (11 inches) size is slightly smaller than the stock 300mm (12 inches) and has substantially different driving characteristics. The maximum stall on a factory GM 5.3L torque converter is 1,600 rpms and the shifts drop approximately 2,200 rpms between shifts. With the new Yank Truck Thruster 2600 torque converter, your 5.3 engine will now stall 2,600 rpms and the 2.1 stall toque ratio will multiply more starting line torque than the factory 1.9 STR. 0-60 acceleration times will drop from .3-.4 seconds! To keep the engine more in the sweet spot of its power-band, the Truck Thruster 2600 converter only allows the shifts to drop 1900 rpms between gear changes. For example, an engine that shifts from 1st gear at 5500 rpms will drop to 3,300 rpms in 2nd gear with the stock torque converter. With the Truck Thruster 2600, the rpms would only drop to 3,600...a nice boost! The Yank Torque Thruster 3.0 is a series of converters for individuals who want maximum thrust off the line without going to excessive stall. The extremely high stall torque ratio of 3.0 multiplies engine torque 3.0 times at the transmission input shaft at launch. This converter is recommended for individuals who want to "roast the tires" while still remaining streetable. The converter is the best choice for individuals who's primary consideration is drivability and who plan to go to the track rarely. The Thruster 2800 provides very good part throttle responsiveness and will provide a significant boost in the 2500 - 3500 rpm range compared with either stock or the Stealth. This converter works best in cars with a mild motor (e.g., lid & cat-back) and 2.73 gears. For 3.23 gears, drag radials are recommended unless the converter is ordered with a 2.5 STR, which is available for $100. PHOTO The Yank 3000 is the converter for those individuals who want to have the best of both worlds. You will get a dramatic increase in off-the-line torque, but the streetability is very high too. The Yank 3000 provides less torque off the line compared to the Thruster, but provides increased performance in the 2500 - 4000 range. This is an excellent choice for street and strip use. High torque and high top-end efficiency are trademarks of the 3000 converter. You can see why these converters were the first sold for the LS1 and still remain a popular choice. PHOTO The Super Yank 3500 is a breakthrough in street/strip converters. By using 21st Century materials and CNC manufacturing, the Super Yank provides a superior launch, without blowing the tires off the line. Our customers typically will pull 60' times on drag radials comparable to their competitor's cars on slicks. Although a SuperYank 3500 can easily roast the tires, you can launch nearly as hard on the street as you could at the strip. The SuperYank 3500 provides great midrange torque. The converter will increase torque out to 5000 rpm on an LS1. This eliminates the flat spots after upshifts and makes second gear a monster even at lower speeds. Because of its lower STR and strong midrange, the SuperYank 3500 teams with 3.73s to form a very hot street set-up. As an additional bonus, the Super Yank is the world leader in efficiency...that means your Super Yank will transform engine torque into rear wheel torque almost as efficiently as a manual transmission! All this in a converter that retains good drivability. PHOTO The Yank Super Thruster 3500 is a hard hitting version of the Super Yank 3500. We take the competition-bred 9" converter housing and bring the efficiency up to Super Yank standards with a proprietary stator. This means you'll get a 3500 stall converter with high efficiency, but with a much harder hit to the tires at the starting line. This converter is a logical step up for individuals wanting something a little more aggressive than the traditional Yank 3000, but don't want to go to a full race converter. PHOTO The Super Yank 4000 converter is a step up in performance for vehicles modified with ported cylinder heads and long duration camshafts. PHOTO The 9" Pro Thruster 4000 converter is for racers looking for maximum launch off the starting line. With over a 4000 stall and a 2.70 stall torque ratio, the 9" Thruster Pro is recommended only for enthusiasts running ET Streets or Slicks. Drag Radials have no hope of hooking up with this converter...it hits that hard! Despite its high STR, the converter maintains very good efficiency. It will hold 5000+ rpms on upshifts, ensuring high hp to the rear wheels throughout the entire 1/4 mile run. This is a serious performance converter for those willing to trade some drivability for true high performance. PHOTO The Ultra Yank utilizes an industry-exclusive 225mm billet housing, custom clutch assembly, extremely low weight and very high efficiency. Stall speeds from 4200 and up. See us to custom tailor for your specific needs. A must for the maximum effort racer or extreme street racer. PHOTO For Nitrous and Blown applications, the Pro Yank 3600 Extreme takes the breakthrough design of the Super Yank and modifies the stall characteristics and shift extension to perfectly match the unique torque curve when using a "power adder". The Pro Yank 3600 Extreme incorporates our exclusive Posi Lock-Up kevlar clutches and 6 bolt mounting lugs to make the most of each nitrous run. Off the bottle, the Pro Yank 3600 Extreme provides similar gains to the Super Yank 3500, giving a solid performance increase on the street while maintaining outstanding drivability."

[stefos]

hi, I have a 94 trans am and just had my automatic trany done and the shop told me they put in a 2002 vette high stall (2000stall)covertor in my trany. I have noticed that now it requires more gas to get it to move from a dead stop is this normal?

[5150]

hi, I have a 94 trans am and just had my automatic trany done and the shop told me they put in a 2002 vette high stall (2000stall)covertor in my trany. I have noticed that now it requires more gas to get it to move from a dead stop is this normal?

Yes.

[5150]

Fuddle hps 3600 str 2.2

[stefos]

thank you so very much for replying back to me, so it is possible to have a vette convertor in my 4l60e tranny in my 94 trans am? and is it a good thing to have a better high stall?

[5150]

thank you so very much for replying back to me, so it is possible to have a vette convertor in my 4l60e tranny in my 94 trans am? and is it a good thing to have a better high stall?

Yes. Its going to get your engine into its powerband quicker, ie. quicker out of the whole. Plus with the lockup your highway mileage wont be affected.

[stefos]

thank you very very much for all your help/info, i'm just not used to the fact that i need to give her more throttle to launch off the start. So does this mean I should kinda power brake off the start when i'm racing her even though shes an automatic?

[5150]

thank you very very much for all your help/info, i'm just not used to the fact that i need to give her more throttle to launch off the start. So does this mean I should kinda power brake off the start when i'm racing her even though shes an automatic?

That's something your just gonna have to play with,each car is different. Suspension mods,tire size,gear ratio,and engine mods all affect how a car is gonna hook. Have fun and good luck!

[bigboykilroy]

I love my yank ss4000 - always run a trans cooler

[juiced99ws6]

if someone could change my vote for me there would be one in the 4200 section!!

I now have a performabuilt 4200 with 1.69 STR

[stefos]

I dont understand why it is better to have to give it more gas to have it launch from a dead stop (pedal feel) as opposed to my stock stall convertor before my new tranny and uprgraded stall. because before the new tranny/higher stall the old one I would just have to touch the pedal and it would go like hell so bottom line it is better to have a high stall ? Im sorry for all the questions guys/girls here and thank you for all the info