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Thread: How to pick a rear?
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11-16-2009, 06:03 PM #61
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11-23-2009, 06:05 PM #62
Is this what I should get to finish my rear end upgrade: http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...55ekneums8spr4 Obviously, will add the UMI torque arm as well. From what I have read on here, this is preferable to a tunnel brace torque arm mount for a mostly street driven car. Yes?
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11-23-2009, 06:12 PM #63
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11-25-2009, 04:08 PM #64
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 635
SOM- 1998 T.A.
Strange > Moser... Midwest 9" is my favorite.......light and strong.... The Dana is a nice piece but it is not any stronger than a 9". The pinion offset on a 9" allows better tooth contact and negates the bigger gear advantage of the D60..
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11-25-2009, 04:26 PM #65
From all the reading I have done -- this all sounds about right. I first saw the Dana in a GMHTP advertisement and it just looked awesome. If I was building an all out race car, the Midwest Fab 9" would be my first choice. The Moser 12" is not the best of the bunch, but it should work well for our car. Thanks for the input!
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11-27-2009, 04:26 PM #66
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 635
SOM- 1998 T.A.
Haha yea. At my meager HP I am just going the best deal I can find used... A 12bolt, 9" or D60 should all handle anything I will make.......
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11-28-2009, 06:30 AM #67
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11-28-2009, 07:24 AM #68
There out there. I sold my 12 bolt for 1000 dollars. All he had to buy was a ring/pinion and set up kit. 200 bucks. I bet he got a good 12 bolt for under 1500 bucks. I usually sell parts cheap though.
370 CI - Twin 6766 Turbo - Jakes stage 5 4L80E - MWC 9" - Holley Dominator
Build in progress...
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11-28-2009, 05:24 PM #69
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12-02-2009, 12:24 PM #70
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 635
SOM- 1998 T.A.
Yea I am about to breakdown and shell out for a new one...
My uncle can get me one for dealer cost from Currie. Think I am gonna go with the stage II on this page http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...e_gmfbody.aspx
I'll post up when I do the swap....
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12-17-2009, 06:50 PM #71
Went today and picked up my Moser 12 bolt from the speed shop. Have to finish checking it all over, but it looks great. I'm really impressed with the overall fabrication and weld quality -- the panhard bracket looks a little odd, but it certainly should be sturdy enough.
The axle I ordered included 4 channel ABS/Traction Control, 33 spline axles, Eaton Truetrac posi and welded relocation brackets. I was informed that since our car is an A4, that the driveshaft may need replaced as the stock length shaft will not work. Anyone know if this is correct?
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12-17-2009, 07:10 PM #72
I got the Strange 60. I have a full bolt on motor right now with an A4 and a 3600 fuddle converter and plan on doing a H/C swap sometime in the spring. I know the 60 will still be an overkill but when I ordered it the saleswoman told me the 12 bolt was more than the 60 and that was the deciding factor for me.I pretty much know that what ever I throw at it, it can more than handle. It was a pretty easy swap and aside from the rear diff slightly leaking after 2 years I cant complain. GoodLuck!
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04-06-2010, 02:46 AM #73
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Location
- Rochester NY
- Posts
- 5
Pewter- 2001 Z-28
Had a chance to read all of this thread and there is a lot of good information..I am new to all of this so it took a little bit to really get a grasp of what is going on. I have a 2001 Z28 with 405 rwhp, dont beat it and I dont track it. Just under 32k. I am looking for the best options that fit my needs without going nuts on price.. I am not a cheapskate but now just isnt the best time for me to be going "nuts" on a car. My stock 10 bolt crapped just before winter and now with the weather breaking, I am anxious to drive. I was thinking about upgrading the gears in the stock, knowing its a chance that I am taking, and was wondering if anyone knows roughly how much something like this would cost? I am also exploring all options, 9" as well as a 12 bolt although I have to say for the use this car gets, I am leaning away from the 9". Please a little more incite and help would be greatly appreciated.
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04-06-2010, 03:29 AM #74
Personally I would go with the 12 bolt. I love mine. Easy to install, I kept my factory ABS and TCS, and it's about as quiet as stock. I wouldn't change the gears in the 10 bolt. You say you don't beat on it, but it's hit or miss on how well a 10 bolt holds up. Some will handle 600 horse, some blow stock. Adding the stress of a more aggressive gear, and it is much more likely to blow again. The cost of the rebuild is only the beginning. I wouldn't do gears myself, so installation costs are going to be steep. You might as well go for the upgrade.
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04-06-2010, 04:48 AM #75
You have two great speed shops up your way that would both be good to talk to. I chose the 12 bolt for a couple of reasons --
1. Concern about clearing the stock sway bar setup with a 9".
2. Could not bring myself to install a "Ford" part on our GM.
3. The Dana and Fab 9 would have been complete overkill for our car.
4. The Dana weighs 20-30 lbs. more than the 12 bolt.
5. The 12 bolt is the most efficient of all the rears.
6. I may race the car 2-3 times per year.
7. Not much over stock hp right now.
Are you A4 or M6? I have my 3.23 10 bolt setting on the floor of my lower garage right now -- it was noise free and looked great inside when I pulled the cover. As far as I know, it only went to the track once when I took it last November and ran it on street tires.
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04-06-2010, 05:00 AM #76
...and all that stuff he said.
I also have a 10 bolt with 3.43's you can have for free if you come get it. Hell...take mine and PAJeff's. You can swap them back and forth for the track or highway
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04-09-2010, 02:51 AM #77
- Join Date
- Mar 2010
- Location
- Rochester NY
- Posts
- 5
Pewter- 2001 Z-28
Its an M6...
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04-09-2010, 08:20 PM #78
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