View Poll Results: What Oil Do You Use

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  • Synthetic

    425 87.09%
  • Dino

    40 8.20%
  • Blended dino/synthetic off the shelf

    17 3.48%
  • I mix my own

    6 1.23%
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  1. #621
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    What do you think of this????

    http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/

  2. #622
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    LOL....we really took a hard look at this oil as it is used by many in NASCAR......so here is our "take" on it....no detergents at all....very high in zinc (catalytic converter exit strategy)....tons of anti wear add packs ( lots of moly)...did I tell you it has zero detergents nor suspension agents.....It is very thin as it totally depends on AW agents and not viscosity ( see HT/HS)....here is the VOA...
    ron 5

    Alum 1

    Cal 2385

    Mag 205

    Z 1368

    Phos 1279

    Sil 4

    NA 8

    B 8

    Tan 1.48

    TBN 8.5
    as you can see nothing to write home about........so bottom line is ....this oil is blended for a race car who is gonna dump it after a race. Very thin and no detergents do not make this oil a oil for a street/muscle car......nor running it more than 500 miles....for sure.....
    If you need all the zinc (flat tappet) look at Shaeffers Series 9000 or Valvoline Racing Oils....

  3. #623
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    LOL....we really took a hard look at this oil as it is used by many in NASCAR......so here is our "take" on it....no detergents at all....very high in zinc (catalytic converter exit strategy)....tons of anti wear add packs ( lots of moly)...did I tell you it has zero detergents nor suspension agents.....It is very thin as it totally depends on AW agents and not viscosity ( see HT/HS)....here is the VOA...
    ron 5

    Alum 1

    Cal 2385

    Mag 205

    Z 1368

    Phos 1279

    Sil 4

    NA 8

    B 8

    Tan 1.48

    TBN 8.5
    as you can see nothing to write home about........so bottom line is ....this oil is blended for a race car who is gonna dump it after a race. Very thin and no detergents do not make this oil a oil for a street/muscle car......nor running it more than 500 miles....for sure.....
    If you need all the zinc (flat tappet) look at Shaeffers Series 9000 or Valvoline Racing Oils....

    Thanks Sarge. This is the oil TSP told me i need to run for the first 500 miles on their engine. after that i am prob just gunna switch to amsoil. Just wondering

  4. #624
    Member CompSyn's Avatar
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    Post Zinc & Phos

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    If you need all the zinc (flat tappet) look at Shaeffers Series 9000 or Valvoline Racing Oils....
    Yep, and there's always AMSOIL Dominator® Synthetic Racing Oil...

    Z 1676

    Phos 1509

    CompSyn

  5. #625
    Member
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    White
    2001 Z28

    2,000 more miles, and we will see my first results for Castrol Edge. Should I get a TBN?
    Last edited by lonewolf37; 03-15-2009 at 08:28 PM. Reason: question

  6. #626
    Member El Toro Loco's Avatar
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    pewter
    2001 Trans AM WS6

    alrite sarge been readin this thread and i wanted to tell you that i to live in south texas town called harlingen maybe you heard of it bout 45 mins from south padre island,
    anyway i been using QuakerState Q horsepower 5w-30 with a k&n filter. is this oil any good. i live in the 100+ degrees weather as you do , i am seriously considering changing to amsoil , cause i wan the best for my car, the car is basically stock for now, i use it occaionally , change the oil every 3k miles, rarely driven hard othr than your occasional red light romp.

    do i change to 0w-30 also because of the weather and stuff. i want the best protection and best quallity for my car. thanks

  7. #627
    Member CompSyn's Avatar
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    Post High Temperature Service...

    Quote Originally Posted by El Toro Loco View Post
    alrite sarge been readin this thread and i wanted to tell you that i to live in south texas town called harlingen maybe you heard of it bout 45 mins from south padre island,
    anyway i been using QuakerState Q horsepower 5w-30 with a k&n filter. is this oil any good. i live in the 100+ degrees weather as you do , i am seriously considering changing to amsoil , cause i wan the best for my car, the car is basically stock for now, i use it occaionally , change the oil every 3k miles, rarely driven hard othr than your occasional red light romp.

    do i change to 0w-30 also because of the weather and stuff. i want the best protection and best quallity for my car. thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Amsoil, Inc.
    The NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high temperature service. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy and increased oil consumption, wear and emissions.

    Click HERE for larger image

    Testing was conducted in November 2008 in accordance with ASTM testing standards using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) . You could expect the same results with 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL), the close cousin to 10W-30(ATM).

    CompSyn

  8. #628
    old timer blue02Z's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    2002 Z28

    werd, i absolutely love amsoil, used lots of their stuff. havent tried the SSO yet just cuz PP is cheaper. its by far the best of the best

  9. #629
    Member El Toro Loco's Avatar
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    pewter
    2001 Trans AM WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by CompSyn View Post
    Click for full size
    Click HERE for larger image

    Testing was conducted in November 2008 in accordance with ASTM testing standards using AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil (ATM) . You could expect the same results with 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil (ASL), the close cousin to 10W-30(ATM).

    CompSyn
    wow looks the oil i been using really aint that great, guess i am gonna go ahead and change to amsoil 10W=30

  10. #630
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonewolf37 View Post
    2,000 more miles, and we will see my first results for Castrol Edge. Should I get a TBN?
    Are you running a 5K OCI? If so I wouldn't waste the ten bucks myself.....

  11. #631
    Junior Member
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    so what should i use here in FL weather
    80000 miles on stock LS1
    mobil one 10w30 extended performance / 10w40 high milage / 15w50 extended performance
    same price

  12. #632
    Member CompSyn's Avatar
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    Post 10w-30

    Quote Originally Posted by b005td View Post
    so what should i use here in FL weather
    80000 miles on stock LS1
    mobil one 10w30 extended performance / 10w40 high milage / 15w50 extended performance
    same price
    Given your oil grade choices, a stock LS1 regardless of weather conditions, go 10W-30...

    CompSyn

  13. #633
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    what weight should i run? i am waiting on a TSP 408, 248/254 .612/.622 113LSA, Patroit stage 2 heads, FAST 92/92....... Thanks



    edith i almost forgot i live in Sacramento, CA warm most of the year.

  14. #634
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    PEWTER
    2001 camaro

    5-30 or thicker

    i always run synthetic 5 30 but my question is should i be running thicker because like most ls1s i get a little lifter tick when the car is cold by the time i put her in gear she is all warmed up and the the ticking stops but if i ran thicker would it be better on the valve train ? its 60_70 degrees here at the begin of spring sorry look like a good place for this question

  15. #635
    Member CompSyn's Avatar
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    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by maroca View Post
    i always run synthetic 5 30 but my question is should i be running thicker because like most ls1s i get a little lifter tick when the car is cold by the time i put her in gear she is all warmed up and the the ticking stops but if i ran thicker would it be better on the valve train ? its 60_70 degrees here at the begin of spring sorry look like a good place for this question
    It’s the opposite of what you’re thinking. If your lifter tick at start-up is motor oil related and it could be, it’s because your oil is too thick – even at 5W-30.

    Try 0W-30.

    Check out THIS LS1.com post.

  16. #636
    Nitrous Tuner LS2Tuner's Avatar
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    Question ???????????????

    What is in this Sarge?????
    Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!

  17. #637
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Big dose of Phos/Zinc. If your using a quality oil it already has everything you need in it.

  18. #638
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maroca View Post
    i always run synthetic 5 30 but my question is should i be running thicker because like most ls1s i get a little lifter tick when the car is cold by the time i put her in gear she is all warmed up and the the ticking stops but if i ran thicker would it be better on the valve train ? its 60_70 degrees here at the begin of spring sorry look like a good place for this question
    Auto RX it and report back. http://www.auto-rx.com/
    I like 10-30 because of the less VI. Unless your using Amsoil then the later does not apply.
    Last edited by Sarge; 03-19-2009 at 05:21 PM.

  19. #639
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    White
    2001 Z28

    3,000m oci

    I am going to change now, at 3,000M. Get a Blackstone analysis for a baseline (no TBN). Then refill with Edge, and start a 5,000M run for my Dyson Analysis. Results will be posted.

  20. #640
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    what weight should i run? i am waiting on a TSP 408, 248/254 .612/.622 113LSA, Patroit stage 2 heads, FAST 92/92....... Thanks



    edith i almost forgot i live in Sacramento, CA warm most of the year.
    any input for me?

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