How do I remove swirl marks ?

**SiggyZ** · 03-09-2007, 01:23 PM

I think that all depends on the intensity of the blemish you are working on because I have gotten great results running mine at just under 3k.

Originally Posted by Z06-Goose

A PC will really do its job when used as a paint correction between 5-6k rpm.

**Z06-Goose** · 03-09-2007, 02:26 PM

Originally Posted by SiggyZ

I think that all depends on the intensity of the blemish you are working on because I have gotten great results running mine at just under 3k.

A combination of pads, compounds...and as you've said the severity of the blemish will dictate the technique you want to use. I'm speaking for personal experience. The clearcoat on the vettes (my car) and fbodies is real hard. Minor surface swirls can be taken out by working the product in at 3k rpm but will take much longer

**Frozen WS6** · 03-09-2007, 06:33 PM

Good thing your only using that high of an rpm on an f body. If you did that to a chrysler product you'd burn the paint in the matter on seconds. Also my experiances have been at those rpms with the 3m perfect it and finess it, or meguires will get to hot and start gumming up and burn onto the paint.

**Mr. Luos** · 03-09-2007, 06:35 PM

I let Z06-Goose deal with mine.

**Z06-Goose** · 03-09-2007, 06:45 PM

**Mr. Luos** · 03-09-2007, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by Z06-Goose

I have had to clean the leftover polish/cutting material off the windshield a few times.

**Z06-Goose** · 03-09-2007, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

I have had to clean the leftover polish/cutting material off the windshield a few times.

when we do the whole car this time, or next time, we'll tape off certain areas so we don't have to deal with it

**Mr. Luos** · 03-09-2007, 07:47 PM

Next weekend???

**Z06-Goose** · 03-09-2007, 07:49 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Next weekend???

Check your local weather forecast for that week

**Mr. Luos** · 03-09-2007, 07:55 PM

My local forecast better be pretty much the same as yours.

Mine might be a touch warmer though...if the sun stays out.

**Z06-Goose** · 03-09-2007, 09:09 PM

I'm planning on doing my Z06 Monday. Claybar, paint correction, polish, leather treatment, windows, exterior trim, engine bay, tires, and wheels. Hopefully the day will be long enough to achieve most of it. I may just do the interior this weekend, including windows, and leave the rest for Monday
You have no idea how bad I want to try my Menzerna line

**Mr. Luos** · 03-09-2007, 09:14 PM

I have a couple black cars to play around with....

**Z06-Goose** · 03-09-2007, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

I have a couple black cars to play around with....

Hehe! We'll do those. Hey, your T/A is due for some claybar as well. as far as your Grand Am we can try some 2-step menzerna process on the hood area, and then top it with some AJ Prime and AJT Sealant, and be ready to be blown away!

**Mr. Luos** · 03-10-2007, 06:09 AM

Ugh....claybar.

**LETHALxLS1** · 03-12-2007, 04:57 PM

I bought some pinticle (sp?) XMT medium swirl/scratch remover and some XMTfine swirl remover also. I used a 7" orange cutting pad from lake county and applied the medium swirl/scratch remover in 2ft x 2ft areas at a time with my PC on 4000 rpms going from front to back on my hood using very slow overlapping passes each time.I wiped each 2x2 area with a microfiber towel after working the swirl remover with the PC till it turned hazey.After doing the entire hood I then did the exact same thing using a 7" black finishing pad with the XMT light swirl remover but moved my PC a little faster when doing the front to back overlapping passes. The next step is to wax but before I even waxed my hood I was blown away at the results. I had several scratches in my hood that came on the car when I bought it and also had some extreme swirl marks(probably from the previous owner going through those cheap ass car washes) and the scratches were gone and the swirl marks were completely gone from all angles and distances. I never used a PC before in my life and it came out great. For the money I would have paid to have it done I saved about 75 bucks and now own the PC buffer. I had a "professional"LOL guy buff my IROC Z one time and he burnt the paint off my gas fill door and my back bumper in one spot. I was super pissed cause I had gotten the car painted about 8 month before this. When I confronted the guy he had the balls to say "that was already like that" I said no dude I know every inch of my car and it was not already there. I even wiped the rubber black shit off my paint with my finger that came from the edge of his buffer. I think he smoked a big crack rock before he did my car because he was talking way to fast and his eyes were tweaked. The bottom line is alot of these guys who claim to be "detailers" arent really very experienced from what I have seen. So if you do get someone else to do it be careful with who you go with.----mike

This is how that guy was acting>>>>

**luciangage** · 03-12-2007, 05:14 PM

i work in a body shop and agree buffing is easy. you are only wanting to remove swirl marks you need a fine foam pad and a good swirl mark remover. i personally prefer 3m 3000 series products. i dont reccommend anyone who has never buffed to use any sandpaper and dont use a wool pad. these are for removing sand scratches,they produce swirls and will burn the paint especially on edges. glazing a car is not a big deal but if your going to get into wetsanding and buffing i recommend taking it to have it done. 250 is about right for a all over job and is cheaper than painting on your car.this is my proffesion and just my opinion.thanks tim

**LETHALxLS1** · 03-12-2007, 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by luciangage

i work in a body shop and agree buffing is easy. you are only wanting to remove swirl marks you need a fine foam pad and a good swirl mark remover. i personally prefer 3m 3000 series products. i dont reccommend anyone who has never buffed to use any sandpaper and dont use a wool pad. these are for removing sand scratches,they produce swirls and will burn the paint especially on edges. glazing a car is not a big deal but if your going to get into wetsanding and buffing i recommend taking it to have it done. 250 is about right for a all over job and is cheaper than painting on your car.this is my proffesion and just my opinion.thanks tim

I agree I would never touch my car with sandpaper or even compund my car. Just like you would probably not attempt to frame in a dutch hip or a bastard hip on the roof of your house. Just not enough experience.

**topfig1** · 03-13-2007, 08:07 AM

If you have little to no experience with a straight up grinder/polisher, buy the dual action polisher from Griotsgarage.com. It is dual action but you cannot tell with the naked eye and it is adjustable up to 7000 rpms. It will not burn through your paint. I have personnaly seen too many people purchase a grider/polisher and burn through clearcoat and paint in a matter of minutes to include myself.

Fig

**LETHALxLS1** · 03-13-2007, 10:23 AM

Originally Posted by topfig1

If you have little to no experience with a straight up grinder/polisher, buy the dual action polisher from Griotsgarage.com. It is dual action but you cannot tell with the naked eye and it is adjustable up to 7000 rpms. It will not burn through your paint. I have personnaly seen too many people purchase a grider/polisher and burn through clearcoat and paint in a matter of minutes to include myself.

Fig

I bought a Porter Cable 7424 and it does small figure 8 patterns (it seems) I think its called an orbital. I was impressed with it.