150 Wet Shot

**BashamWS6** · 06-22-2011, 12:44 PM

well if thats the case...maybe i shouldnt go N20
i just got this motor in 2 weeks ago becuase i had a spun bearing in the last ls1...

Originally Posted by RealLiveMD

get a wet kit, start at 100. 125 to 150 with a good tune. I don't like the harris purge though. If the bottle pressure is over 1000, it won't open to allow you to get the pressure down. All of the other harris stuff works though. I use tr6's. Every joe smo on the internet has a different opinion about the right air fuel ratio, and plugs. There is not a consistent agreement about how much timing to pull either. I can speak from experience about almost every and any part, sponsor, etc on an f body. I've done and redone my car a lot. Overall, don't use nitrous if you can't afford to buy a new motor when you blow it up. With that being said, my car has nearly 98000 miles on it. It has been put to the floor every day of its life. It's survived cam swaps, head changes etc. It has been sprayed with a 100 shot over 30 times and 125 over 10. It's made 600rwhp without blowing. It doesn't smoke, it still drives like a dream and gets 25mpg.

**LS2Tuner** · 06-22-2011, 03:13 PM

......................

Well I have been playing with Nitrous now since 91 when we made our own plates out of a 1" carb spaced with 2 fogger nozzle's & I have NEVER BLOWN A MOTOR YET. I take that back we took a slant six MOPAR Dart & blew it up Purposely after 4 bottles with a -4 hose WIDE OPEN into the 1 barrel carb. It ended up freezing the carb after 2 & we had to allow it to thaw back out.
Anyways I have done a Lot of crazy shit on rental cars too. I Would NEVER let 1 of my customers think if they Didn't have enough $ for a back up motor to NOT install a kit.
That's CRAZY to ME.
I think for 1 you get what you pay for. 2 with the correct A/F & stock timing not much if any timing needs to be pulled. Now Don't get that confused! All these people with Billy Bobs tune THAT IS A WHOLE DIFFERENT STORY. The whole timing map has been molested & God knows he bumped the timing up. 3 I Always replace the OE stock pump with a Quality 255 pump. UNLESS IT'S A RENTAL! IT GETS A FOGGER & -4 THROUGH THE DOOR JAM TO THE CO PILOT OPENING & CLOSING THE BOTTLE GABLE.

The ONLY time a discussion even comes up about a motor breaking is when we do 300+ on a single stage.

**RealLiveMD** · 06-22-2011, 07:24 PM

Not trying to battle anyone, I've had many friends break rears, blow motors, etc... when adding any power adder. It's sad to see my buddy's car down for 6-8 months while they are saving for a new motor, part, etc. As a result, I tell everyone that you have to pay to play and that I wouldn't consider racing if i couldn't replace what breaks. That's sound advice. Then again, I'm not a patient man. I have to have my junk running asap or I don't sleep well. So, let me rephrase it. Any power adder can cause engine damage, Nitrous is the most inconsistent. If you are adding nitrous, consider whether this is your daily driver, what you would do if something happened, etc. I wish you the best. LS1's can take a lot of abuse as I detailed in my previous post.

**LS2Tuner** · 06-22-2011, 07:57 PM

The Best thing that HELPS most All parts on these younger kids street cars is the FACT they will NEVER hook up. It keeps Most all things from breaking in most of My experience over the years. From the diff to the granny..... If its just blowing the tires off the parts don't realize they aren't actually feeling all that stress.

I'm Not trying to battle anyone either. Just sharing my opinion since I see it all the time as this is what I do to make a living.

Here is a CLEAR picture of the VAST difference between a True race plug & the normal.

The 1 on the left is a AR94 Autolite. MINOR Things like this are the Key between spark & detonation. A regular plug is NOT designed to hold up to Extreme cylinder pressures & heat. Minor Hot spots on plugs can cause Pre ignition which equals to detonation.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-22-2011, 07:59 PM

What's the point of having a 150 shot if you aren't hooking up? I don't see any.

**LS2Tuner** · 06-22-2011, 08:15 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

What's the point of having a 150 shot if you aren't hooking up? I don't see any.

Well seeing that we are in the Real world..... More than 50% of the cars on here & @ the track Don't hook & Never will!! Yeah that sounds good to some. BUT Most people will Continue to modify there cars for More power when they Didn't even hook when Stock. That is why Sooo many Fox body cars with a mere 300 or so to the wheels KILL cars that just put down 450-600 on the dyno Every week @ real street races that AREN'T just a parking lot of bench racing shit talkers. Some cars are Very Easy to make Dead hook with Minor mods. We have a Fox that does 1.28 60fts ALL Day with a small 275/60/15 dragradial & stock rear suspension.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-22-2011, 08:18 PM

Oh I agree with you 100%, but I think on the same note, you probably agree with me too

**LS2Tuner** · 06-22-2011, 08:26 PM

Hell I got cars that Barely break into the 12's but pick the 1 tire up they hook so hard. People get Really pissed when they get beat by a Damn near stock Fox with 150,000 miles on it.

I Always try to get them (my customers) to make the car dead hook or come close to it before we do major power mode. I was done doing burnouts when I was 15 in GN's.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-22-2011, 08:36 PM

Yeah if your set-up is right (suspension), it doesn't take much torque at all to lift a wheel up. A stock powered LS1 can do it with the right set-up and weight transfer.

Being he's on stock suspension and stock tires though, there won't be any "dead-hooking" going on.

Basham, good luck whatever you decide buddy

**BashamWS6** · 06-23-2011, 05:05 AM

Yeah. Ive been running in circles trying to decide what i want.
But 98% of the time...i start races at 35 to...hell 70mph. At that point, my car doesnt loose that much traction unless i drop The clutch to a much lower gear.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-23-2011, 06:13 AM

You are talking about your current 300rwhp versus about 410-420rwhp...BIG difference.

**allbaugh_04** · 06-30-2011, 03:07 PM

Are v6s springs proven to help traction on the street or reduce '60ft?

**LS2Tuner** · 06-30-2011, 03:40 PM

Originally Posted by allbaugh_04

Are v6s springs proven to help traction on the street or reduce '60ft?

Proven FACT. Any thing to aid in weight transfer will help hook on the street & @ the track for your 60' times. I have been tuning engines & suspension for many many years now. I Only share FACTS.

**Danger731** · 06-30-2011, 04:02 PM

You won't need to worry about hooking unless you spray outta the hole anyways.

**allbaugh_04** · 06-30-2011, 04:35 PM

I don't know what you drive but if I give her hell, there are black marks for 50 ft. I need to install this tq arm. Figure out pinion angle and adjust the lcas down to the lowest notch. I will add v6 springs if they help.

**LS2Tuner** · 06-30-2011, 05:05 PM

NO shit!! I spin the tires with STOCK motors with Just my tune & some drag radials. On the pinion angle do yourself a favor & measure it. Make sure it's Not more than 3.75 or you will be killing u-joints quick. You Can get away with as much as 4.5 for a lil bit IF Needed to take some punks money real quick. I have figured that about 3.5 is about the best. It will Aid vastly too to loosen your end links on the swaybar. It will Add a couple inches of front end travel.

**allbaugh_04** · 06-30-2011, 05:44 PM

I took the sway bar off two years ago.

I want this thing to HOOK on the street.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-30-2011, 07:14 PM

I'm putting 500rwhp to the ground in a M6 and my car dead hooks with Nitto 555r DR's from a 4K stomp in 1st gear shifting at 6300RPM. NO CHIRP when shifting...it hooks hard.

Pinion angle = -2.

Rest of mods in sig.

It's all about suspension.

**jrzdude** · 06-30-2011, 07:41 PM

@LS2-Where are you located at?

**allbaugh_04** · 06-30-2011, 08:29 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I'm putting 500rwhp to the ground in a M6 and my car dead hooks with Nitto 555r DR's from a 4K stomp in 1st gear shifting at 6300RPM. NO CHIRP when shifting...it hooks hard.

Pinion angle = -2.

Rest of mods in sig.

It's all about suspension.

Hoping my adjustable tq arm can achieve this