What's Your Idle Speed?

**Naaman** · 05-21-2011, 04:37 PM

No light. If it will trigger one, though... maybe it needs to experience it a few more times.

I should add that while I was sitting at the red light, I turned off the engine, and started it back up and the idle settled at 1150ish.

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According to this thread, I may just need to clean my IAC valve/sensor. I'll give that a whirl, since it seems to be the most likely thing (since I have messed with it several times in the last few days with all the on and off of the TB).

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Ah HA!!! I just took the sensor off and the O-Ring is damaged which is consistent with what Potz_Speed said in the other thread. Let's see if the dealer has one on hand...

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After driving to 5 different stores, I finally found the part I needed. Installed it after erasing the codes. I let the engine warm up and scanned it again. No codes. Idle was normal at 1000. Hopefully this is the end of the whole issue.

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***SMWS6TA*** · 05-21-2011, 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by Naaman

******
According to this thread, I may just need to clean my IAC valve/sensor. I'll give that a whirl, since it seems to be the most likely thing (since I have messed with it several times in the last few days with all the on and off of the TB).

******

Ah HA!!! I just took the sensor off and the O-Ring is damaged which is consistent with what Potz_Speed said in the other thread. Let's see if the dealer has one on hand...

********
After driving to 5 different stores, I finally found the part I needed. Installed it after erasing the codes. I let the engine warm up and scanned it again. No codes. Idle was normal at 1000. Hopefully this is the end of the whole issue.

.

I'll be doing this tomorrow.

I have the same crap just no surging. It always stays at 1000 to 1100 rpm.

What part store and f you have the part # I would be very appreciative

**Naaman** · 05-21-2011, 09:06 PM

Yeah, about that...

I have a 98, and the o-ring is orange. The first O'Reilly's I went to the guy said that the ring was made of a "fuel resistant" material. I went to Auto-Zone, Ace Hardware, Home Depot and then another O'Reilly's where they had a black O-ring in the same size that I needed. I mentioned the fuel resistant thing and this second guy assured me that it was indeed the same material. I don't have the part number though... sorry (I'll check in the morning when I go down to the car.. I left the packaging in the car).

I cleaned the sensor and the socket with TB cleaner (CRC) before the install. I let the car idle for a few minutes and it went from 1200 on a "cold" start to 1000 after a couple mins... not sure if this will solve your issue of idling at 1000... but it seems to have fixed my issue of idling at 15 million

**SteveC** · 05-22-2011, 06:15 AM

Originally Posted by Faught

hmm mine must be low, when it's warm my idle is around 500rpm

Your idle is not low if you have a stock setup, my idle had to be increased from yours when a smaller diameter TC was installed, the smaller TC rotated faster than stock, so a higher idle had to be applied.

My 2004 Tahoe (4l60E, stock converter) idle's @ 500 rpm warm.

SteveC

**Naaman** · 05-22-2011, 08:11 AM

What I got was a pack of 5 rings. Brand name O-TITE, part number 64018. The material is buna-n. according to this site it is the right material.

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***SMWS6TA*** · 05-22-2011, 04:08 PM

clean sensor, new o ring, used carb cleaner (- no vacuum leaks) and still have 1000 rpm idle

That just leaves me contacting Frost.

**Naaman** · 05-22-2011, 10:10 PM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

clean sensor, new o ring, used carb cleaner (- no vacuum leaks) and still have 1000 rpm idle

That just leaves me contacting Frost.

Yeah, same here... though I have not checked for vacuum leaks... since I have no idea how or where to start

Now, out of curiosity, were you able to get the red/orange o-ring, or was yours black, too?

**Firebirdjones** · 05-23-2011, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

clean sensor, new o ring, used carb cleaner (- no vacuum leaks) and still have 1000 rpm idle

That just leaves me contacting Frost.

I'm guessing you don't have tuning software. I was going to suggest looking at the tune and see what exactly is programmed in there for an idle.

Because I would think if something was really wrong you should be setting a code of some sort like Naaman reported on his car.

Quite frankly, 1,000 rpm isn't all that high, especially for a stick car. Might be a bit much for an auto, but I always bumped my idle up on both 4th gens (auto and stick) because I never liked the factory 550 programmed setting.

**WICKEDLS1** · 05-23-2011, 08:11 AM

600 roughly here cause it make the cam lope like a mofo

**Firebirdjones** · 05-23-2011, 08:28 AM

Originally Posted by WICKEDLS1

600 roughly here cause it make the cam lope like a mofo

I'm the opposite. I bumped my wifes car up to 850-900 because I didn't want to hear or feel the cam lope so much. Makes it a little nicer for her to drive everyday.

**WICKEDLS1** · 05-23-2011, 08:55 AM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I'm the opposite. I bumped my wifes car up to 850-900 because I didn't want to hear or feel the cam lope so much. Makes it a little nicer for her to drive everyday.

yeah i can understand that especially since she drives it every day. i just love to pull up to a stop light next to some other sports car and just watch them stare or even better is when they turn down their radio just to hear my car

**M-1000** · 05-23-2011, 12:57 PM

Cold start ~1000rpm. Idle settled to 550-650 rpm with the stock converter. 2400 stall now it idles 500-600rpm.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-23-2011, 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by Naaman

Yeah, same here... though I have not checked for vacuum leaks... since I have no idea how or where to start

Now, out of curiosity, were you able to get the red/orange o-ring, or was yours black, too?

black

**Vexzer** · 05-26-2011, 08:35 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

I'm the opposite. I bumped my wifes car up to 850-900 because I didn't want to hear or feel the cam lope so much. Makes it a little nicer for her to drive everyday.

My cam lope is there at 60MPH.

**Mr. Luos** · 05-26-2011, 08:36 PM

Originally Posted by Vexzer

My cam lope is there at 60MPH.

What?

Stock tune with an M6....idle should be at 800RPM.

**Firebirdjones** · 05-27-2011, 05:53 AM

Originally Posted by Vexzer

My cam lope is there at 60MPH.

Ha, well it depends on what gear you are in or what rear gear you run

Relative to RPM, I have a couple of cars here that won't smooth out till 1800-2000 rpms. I'm okay with that, but I don't drive them daily either.

**Naaman** · 05-31-2011, 08:12 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

clean sensor, new o ring, used carb cleaner (- no vacuum leaks) and still have 1000 rpm idle

That just leaves me contacting Frost.

How can a tune reduce the idle speed without making a mechanical adjustment to the throttle? I can understand adjusting the A/F ratio and spark timing and all that, but what effect would this have when the car is in gear, idling through traffic or pulling into/out of a parking spot?

The reason I ask is because I flipped the screw in my throttle body and I can't get it to go low enough to idle below 1000. And, after a drive, the idle hovers at about 1150.

I was thinking about replacing the screw with a smaller one, or shaving it down some, but I don't know if I can do that without making it useless.

**Firebirdjones** · 05-31-2011, 10:25 AM

Originally Posted by Naaman

How can a tune reduce the idle speed without making a mechanical adjustment to the throttle? I can understand adjusting the A/F ratio and spark timing and all that, but what effect would this have when the car is in gear, idling through traffic or pulling into/out of a parking spot?

The reason I ask is because I flipped the screw in my throttle body and I can't get it to go low enough to idle below 1000. And, after a drive, the idle hovers at about 1150.

I was thinking about replacing the screw with a smaller one, or shaving it down some, but I don't know if I can do that without making it useless.

That screw really isn't there to be messing around with idle speed. That is set in the tune which makes it the IAC's job to keep it where it's told to, providing the IAC isn't gummed up and is adjusted properly.

You'll have to go in with tuning software and see exactly what's being commanded in the tune and then go from there. It can also be used to set the IAC correctly.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-31-2011, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by Naaman

How can a tune reduce the idle speed without making a mechanical adjustment to the throttle? I can understand adjusting the A/F ratio and spark timing and all that, but what effect would this have when the car is in gear, idling through traffic or pulling into/out of a parking spot?

The reason I ask is because I flipped the screw in my throttle body and I can't get it to go low enough to idle below 1000. And, after a drive, the idle hovers at about 1150.

I was thinking about replacing the screw with a smaller one, or shaving it down some, but I don't know if I can do that without making it useless.

I tried it with out the screw and it would still idle @ 1000 rpm. Also it caused the spring to get stuck and not respond to the pedal because it is to far down.

For shits and grins I threw back the non ported TB and still had it idling at 1000 rpm.

**Naaman** · 05-31-2011, 02:28 PM

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

That screw really isn't there to be messing around with idle speed. That is set in the tune which makes it the IAC's job to keep it where it's told to, providing the IAC isn't gummed up and is adjusted properly.

You'll have to go in with tuning software and see exactly what's being commanded in the tune and then go from there. It can also be used to set the IAC correctly.

But it does affect the idle speed, right? If I'm getting a tune, what are my options generally? I heard of "street tunes" and "dyno tunes"... what else is on the menu if I have to go that route?