Battery Relocation

[Sarge]

This is something I am planning on doing shortly. I didn't think of routing the wire underneath the car but go through the inside and out the firewall (like building a high power system.......which I have alot of experience with. I actually have a gold plated 200 amp fuse for 0 gauge wire still laying around which is planned to be used haha.).

Would there be any problems with going through the interior?

Especially when considering track rules/regulations.

Also how did you mount the box in your trunk? Did you just drill into the floor and bolt up that way?

Thanks in advance!

Yeah drilled holes and mounted it. You can run it through the car but I found the flex conduit underneath is less prone to a rubbing type short running though firewalls and stuff.

[Sarge]

i used 4 self tapping bolts down through the trunk floor. I also ran mine inside along the passenger side.....its a pain to get the carpet to fit over the loom, but the end product came out great.

Called hot roding man....do it any way works for you.Sounds like a good job.

[mark21742]

No I drilled and sanded a spot on the frame in the rear of the car. Then up front I grounded the original ground to the frame and ran a new 1guage wire from the engine block to the frame.

I used one of the bolt holes for the gas tank cage to hook my ground in solid

[mark21742]

Yeah drilled holes and mounted it. You can run it through the car but I found the flex conduit underneath is less prone to a rubbing type short running though firewalls and stuff.

to run through the firewall I picked up a grey threaded male and threaded female plastic pipe fittings and drill a hole just big enough for the male threads to slide through then screwed the female end on to lock it inplace.
after that I used plumbers pipe cement to glue the loom into the end fittings.
it was a pain, but worth the piece of mind

[mark21742]

Called hot roding man....do it any way works for you.Sounds like a good job.

lol yup more than one way to skin a cat......as long as its in there solid I'm happy!

[Sarge]

It is about 4X4 inches. Home Depot electrical splice box (comes in a variety of sizes) and spray painted with high temp red. Not sure what your asking about "tabs"....if your talking the punch outs then yes. Stereo department has the 200 amp fuses. It is not resettable...I carry a few spares.

[Sarge]

sarge.you mentioned using the existing ground cable back down to the lug that had previously secured bracket. on thread #21 2nd page battery relocation you say up front you grounded the orignal ground to the frame. is that the same one thats secured to the lug after battery removal? also does that 1 gauge wire you used from engine block to frame be installed pass side or can it be installed on pass side. thanks. bob v

Yeah I grounded the original negative cable to the frame and then grounded the block from the passenger side to the same frame ground.
Stopped the hard start when she was hot instantly.

[Sarge]

sarge. any reason for using a 200 amp fuse? went to stereo shop to get the items i need. told him what i was doing. he recommended 150 amp. are you running a high output alternator, or amp. i am new at this and want to do the right thing. could not do this if it was not for all the information on installed documents. thanks again bob v

Sorry man...didnt see your post.....
Kick your stereo shop guy in the man junk and think about this....when these motors and that lil bitty Mitsibushi fucking starter are hot she pulls some amps in a normal environment....you would be blowing fuses all the time under normal (nothing is wrong) conditions....200amp will blow instantly in case of a direct frame short.

[mark21742]

Yeah I grounded the original negative cable to the frame and then grounded the block from the passenger side to the same frame ground.
Stopped the hard start when she was hot instantly.

I'll have to try this.....i just noticed about a week ago if I shut the car off for a few minutes and try to hot start it again the starter does crank very slow compared to cold start......so do you think a better ground would solve my problem?

[bobv]

sarge. could not post on your thread stiffy install. so i am trying here. i have the catch can installed on the lower bolt hole on the head which the rod end attaches to.does the bracket for the catch can gofirst then the rod end. or outside the rod end then the bolt. thanks bob v

[Sarge]

I'll have to try this.....i just noticed about a week ago if I shut the car off for a few minutes and try to hot start it again the starter does crank very slow compared to cold start......so do you think a better ground would solve my problem?

Sure as hell eliminated mine .......and mine was exactly as you described....

[Sarge]

sarge. could not post on your thread stiffy install. so i am trying here. i have the catch can installed on the lower bolt hole on the head which the rod end attaches to.does the bracket for the catch can gofirst then the rod end. or outside the rod end then the bolt. thanks bob v

Stiffy bracket goes on the head first then the catch can bracket.

[bobv]

sarge.you mention be sure to ground to a solid chassis. you installed a ground underneath the tub area of the trunk area. where does it go from there, to the chassis, or to the neg side of battery in trunk. i am running a 1/0 wire from neg side of battery to lower lug nut that holds the saftey cage for gas tank. should i run another ground to underneath the tub area to chassis. thanks bob v

[mark21742]

sarge.you mention be sure to ground to a solid chassis. you installed a ground underneath the tub area of the trunk area. where does it go from there, to the chassis, or to the neg side of battery in trunk. i am running a 1/0 wire from neg side of battery to lower lug nut that holds the saftey cage for gas tank. should i run another ground to underneath the tub area to chassis. thanks bob v

where you have your ground should be fine, as long as its good and clean.....i ran my ground from the battery to one of the upper bolt hole where the gas tank cage used to be

[Sarge]

sarge.you mention be sure to ground to a solid chassis. you installed a ground underneath the tub area of the trunk area. where does it go from there, to the chassis, or to the neg side of battery in trunk. i am running a 1/0 wire from neg side of battery to lower lug nut that holds the saftey cage for gas tank. should i run another ground to underneath the tub area to chassis. thanks bob v

You are fine. I am anal. I run it through the tub to a ground lug on the chassis we rigged. I wear suspenders and a belt also. I cannot recommend enough grounding your engine block to a solid chassis ground though.

[bobv]

sarge, have you had any issues with the computer after running the relocation of your battery.anything i need to do to avoid any issues. thanks bob v

[mark21742]

sarge, have you had any issues with the computer after running the relocation of your battery.anything i need to do to avoid any issues. thanks bob v

as long as all your connections are you won't have any issues at all

[Sarge]

sarge, have you had any issues with the computer after running the relocation of your battery.anything i need to do to avoid any issues. thanks bob v

None at all....no electrical issues at all.....the only issue was a slower grinding starter when the motor was hot.....that was fixed by grounding the engine block to the chassis.....but I have seen that issue on stock GTO's and other GM products.....so I really cannot put the blame for that on the battery relocation....

[bobv]

sarge. i bought a jumper terminal from jegs, my battery terminal will not fit over the jumper terminal. is your pos terminal in splice box fit your stock pos terminal? my part # is 055510315. any help would be appreciated. bob v

[Sarge]

I used this one...
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10315/10002/-1

You just need to pry your OEM terminal open...it will fit...