Trick Flow Head/Cam Package??

**blackbirdbrain89** · 09-21-2010, 04:25 PM

Originally Posted by Wheeler99WS6

the 5.3L heads will give you a lower compression ratio. I know of plenty of guys that are running them. I am personally interested in the Ported LS6 heads. Prc ported LS6 heads stg. 2 along with around a 230 duration and a 90/90 combo (FAST intake and throttle body) I would say you would be very close to that 450rwhp you want, if you are m6 you may have a little more hp.
if A4 and looking for 450 then you may need a little bit bigger cam but you will be darn close with the following set-up i would think.

Very true. Ported LS6 heads are performing very well.

just so every one know a 5.3 head will bump up the CR

they have a lower cc there for more CR... they flow less because of the same reason..

**splitfinger09** · 09-22-2010, 02:05 PM

Anyone? Any special tools I might need? Any more parts that I will need that dont come with the kit. Thanks for the help.

**jb3golf** · 10-10-2010, 11:09 PM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

Anyone? Any special tools I might need? Any more parts that I will need that dont come with the kit. Thanks for the help.

All you need to do is go to LS1howto.com and read the instructions for head/cam install. Make sure you read it through, omitting nothing. Earlier this year I installed EVERYTHING in my car: Melling Oil pump, refreshened LS1 Heads with chromoly retainers, blue viton valve seals, refreshened valves, 918 springs, 224R Camshaft on 114LSA, ARP Rod Bolts (need to drop suspension/k-member for these!), LS6 timing chain etc....I mean you name it, I did it. AND this was an engine "in car" project.....there's ALOT to this install!!!!!!

Again, I performed 100% Labor on all parts listed; So................................................ ..........
If you have any questions, let me know, as this install is still fresh in my mind. Good luck!!!

**jb3golf** · 10-10-2010, 11:14 PM

Originally Posted by splitfinger09

Anyone? Any special tools I might need? Any more parts that I will need that dont come with the kit. Thanks for the help.

Additionally, make sure to CALL Trick Flow and ask them all of these questions as well. It is THEIR products you will be spending some serious cash on.........

**SOMbitch** · 10-19-2010, 01:33 PM

You do understand that is 515 at the flywheel wich is 450 (+/-) at the wheels on a M6 car...

**splitfinger09** · 10-19-2010, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by SOMbitch

You do understand that is 515 at the flywheel wich is 450 (+/-) at the wheels on a M6 car...

I do. I have chosen a different route. Let me know if you have any input.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146254

**PFM** · 10-20-2010, 06:57 AM

Seeing how you haven't done the boltons yet why don't you look at the Procharger setups? They will definately put you over the 500 hp at the tires.

**xmarkx** · 10-20-2010, 03:43 PM

Originally Posted by jb3golf

All you need to do is go to LS1howto.com and read the instructions for head/cam install. Make sure you read it through, omitting nothing. Earlier this year I installed EVERYTHING in my car: Melling Oil pump, refreshened LS1 Heads with chromoly retainers, blue viton valve seals, refreshened valves, 918 springs, 224R Camshaft on 114LSA, ARP Rod Bolts (need to drop suspension/k-member for these!), LS6 timing chain etc....I mean you name it, I did it. AND this was an engine "in car" project.....there's ALOT to this install!!!!!!

Again, I performed 100% Labor on all parts listed; So................................................ ..........
If you have any questions, let me know, as this install is still fresh in my mind. Good luck!!!

if you have to remove the K and oil pan then I'm assuming you need to use a hoist to hold up the engine from the top??? correct me if I'm wrong because I'm planning to do the work myself

**INMY01TA** · 10-20-2010, 04:48 PM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

if you have to remove the K and oil pan then I'm assuming you need to use a hoist to hold up the engine from the top??? correct me if I'm wrong because I'm planning to do the work myself

You don't need to drop the K to do a head/cam swap.

**xmarkx** · 10-20-2010, 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

You don't need to drop the K to do a head/cam swap.

common sense could easily of told you I'm not talking about H/C
why would I ask if you need to take the K off when it's on the bottom of the engine.....

hhhmmm O I KNOW!!! maybe to replace the rod bolts....

**xmarkx** · 10-20-2010, 05:50 PM

"ARP Rod Bolts (need to drop suspension/k-member for these!)"

if someone could give me a non smart ass answer that would be great

**INMY01TA** · 10-20-2010, 05:58 PM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

"ARP Rod Bolts (need to drop suspension/k-member for these!)"

if someone could give me a non smart ass answer that would be great

Only smart ass I see here is you, I missed the ARP rodbolt bit so you can fuck yourself but no you don't need an engine hoist while dropping the K. You can figure out how somewhere else.

**xmarkx** · 10-20-2010, 06:48 PM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

Only smart ass I see here is you, I missed the ARP rodbolt bit so you can fuck yourself but no you don't need an engine hoist while dropping the K. You can figure out how somewhere else.

no please tell me where you could support the weight of the engine from underneath with the K AND THE OIL PAN removed.... I hope your not sugesting to simply position the Jack under the trans and let the motor just hang off of the bellhousing.... that would just be plain stupid....

I reall want to know how to change rod bolts while the engine is in the car so if anyone knows besides this guy that's not going to tell me, PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME. thankyou in advance

**INMY01TA** · 10-20-2010, 06:51 PM

Well I've read of someone using a strut tower brace to support it.

**jb3golf** · 10-20-2010, 11:36 PM

Like I said before, I JUST COMPLETED a project that included labor on everything specified in this thread by myself. SO....................what you need to do is be creative in a safe manner. Obviously you don't just let the engine assembly dangle by itself......If you have multiple hydraulic jacks to use, this is the secret here; All you do is get a couple of pieces of 4X4 wood, and use a piece to put between the jack and the transmission/engine assembly to hold it up in place. I used one jack for the rear section of the engine/tranmission area, and one for the very front near the k member. This way the engine was supported evenly from front to back. It's actually quite easy, but you have to be very careful and make sure your placement points are correct.

The engine/transmission assembly will never dangle if you use this method. In fact, all you do at this point is work on the rod bolt change and there is plenty of room in between the two hydraulic jack points. Let me know if you have further questions. I hope this makes sense. Good luck!

**jb3golf** · 10-20-2010, 11:39 PM

Sorry bro for not responding sooner. WHATEVER advice you need on this project, I got your back......Let me know...

**jb3golf** · 10-20-2010, 11:40 PM

BTW did you look up the rod bolt change install doc for our cars?? This was a big help to me........

**jb3golf** · 10-20-2010, 11:41 PM

Here: http://www.ls1engine.com/tech/98-02-...-bolt-install/

**xmarkx** · 10-21-2010, 04:08 AM

Originally Posted by jb3golf

BTW did you look up the rod bolt change install doc for our cars?? This was a big help to me........

I haven't seen that yet. thanks for the tips with the jacks.

so tell me if I have this straight.

first you take the oil pan off. then you support the motor from the very front with a Jack. then support tranny with a Jack. then drop the K.

you must of been right under the front edge of the block with the first Jack, correct?

**jb3golf** · 10-21-2010, 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by xmarkx

I haven't seen that yet. thanks for the tips with the jacks.

so tell me if I have this straight.

first you take the oil pan off. then you support the motor from the very front with a Jack. then support tranny with a Jack. then drop the K.

you must of been right under the front edge of the block with the first Jack, correct?

Well, It's important that you have the jack set up and ALREADY under the transmission side of the engine block JUST BEFORE you disengage the K-member. Remember, once the K-member IS loose, there is nothing to support the assembly. SO, you support it from the back and front.

For example: As soon as you have it loosened, place the first jack under the k-member on the front of the block. It fits perfect right under it and you can adjust it (up or down) as you need to. This will allow you to remove the oil pan from its location. The whole point of the second jack is to make sure the assembly is supported SO AS to decrease any stress on parts (bolts that connect transmission to engine block)

Remember, the oil pan WILL NOT come out unless the k-member is loosened and lowered WITH THE FIRST JACK I explained above............