Nitrous questions!

[WICKEDLS1]

I thought that i put them on public but ill add you as a friend and see if that fixes the problem

let me see if it will pull the pic up using the BB code

[WICKEDLS1]

arming switch


push button



bottle placement


the aftermath of 30 rolls especially on bottle

[98maro]

Thanks. Guys nice setups. I like the idea on the side but I love the one on the center.
The one on the side I line it for twin 10 lbs bottles lol.
I would do that!!!
10lbs bottle is the perfect size.
That's what I would run.

Question. Why is it hard the wiring part?
Do you have to go through the system on the car or why is that?
Also. I was told the nitrous always have to be "purged" before using it or as result is blown intake !

[BLK2KSS]

Thanks. Guys nice setups. I like the idea on the side but I love the one on the center.
The one on the side I line it for twin 10 lbs bottles lol.
I would do that!!!
10lbs bottle is the perfect size.
That's what I would run.

Question. Why is it hard the wiring part?
Do you have to go through the system on the car or why is that?
Also. I was told the nitrous always have to be "purged" before using it or as result is blown intake !

Yup, I love it I the center. It’s easy to open and the gauge is visible too. I have a spare bottle and I plan to go with a twin bottle setup to replace the back seats. I will sand both bottles and paint them to match. The wiring really isn’t hard, it’s just a little tedious with making sure everything is right and running it through the firewall and getting it all tucked up nicely. Running a purge is highly recommended but not really a must. The reason for it is to clear the line of any moister or regular air so that the line is only 100% fresh nitrous. With a wet or dry kit running without one shouldn’t really hurt anything since it will run rich and not lean for a second, until the nitrous is pushed through the line, from the added fuel from the injectors or nozzle. You will really feel the delay before the hit when not running a purge. The "blown intake" you are hearing about is from a backfire which can happen a few different ways but mostly is the result of spraying at too low of an RPM. This is why things like throttle activated systems and window switch modules are important since they control when the nitrous is sprayed and keeps it safe.

[98maro]

Thanks for all the help & time jason. I appreciate it.
I'm learning alot about this now.


Once I get the nitrous on the car and ready to go. I probably get a twin setup.
On the bottle I'm getting a custom design. Air brush.
Skulls with some flames, make it look killer.
Lol


To get the purge done what exactly do I need?
Window switch module comes with the kit??

[BLK2KSS]

Thanks for all the help & time jason. I appreciate it.
I'm learning alot about this now.


Once I get the nitrous on the car and ready to go. I probably get a twin setup.
On the bottle I'm getting a custom design. Air brush.
Skulls with some flames, make it look killer.
Lol


To get the purge done what exactly do I need?
Window switch module comes with the kit??

No problem Leo. The only way to learn things is to ask questions and that’s why these forums are so great. Yeah that sounds pretty killer. I’m planning to paint mine black and put a punisher symbol on them along with my air lid. The purge solenoid needs to be setup before the nitrous solenoid and as close to it as possible. Most people simply mount it to the nitrous solenoid like I did in the pic I posted. My solenoid looks different than moth though because the ZEX kit I got has the "brain box" that has both the nitrous and fuel solenoid and the computer info for the TPS stuff all in one convenient box. The purge just intercepts the incoming nitrous line from the bottle. You just hook it to the "in" side of the nitrous solenoid and hook the nitrous line from the bottle to the other end. It basically does the same thing as the nitrous solenoid but directs the flow out instead of to the nozzle. When it’s not in use the nitrous just flows right through it to the nitrous solenoid and then to the nozzle like its not even there. I hope I’m explaining this to where it makes sense. Window switch modules do not usually come with kits since they are not a necessity for the nitrous to work but just a safety feature for easier use. Most companies that make nitrous products will offer them. They aren’t really that expensive and generally run around $150. To me that’s cheap insurance to assure that your system is always safe. After buying a new intake, TB and other things that tend to go boom with a nasty backfire that 150 bucks sounds really cheap.

[BLK2KSS]

Heres a pic to help explain what Im talking about...

[WICKEDLS1]

ive wondered how those zex controllers have worked. almost bought one but didnt because of lack of knowledge on them

[98maro]

Nice Jason.
So that on the picture. I'd the brain box? Is that the one that activates at WOT? or I'm wrong?
The solenoid for the purge does it automatically stops on purge or u have to hold it?
I was on another forum and the guys said to get my nitrous kit done and a that is about $2000 that's seems high to me.
I seen kits for $380-580.

[98maro]

Seems simple to
Install probably in person looks a little harder lol.


But I'm a have to wait cuz the money I had I spent it on getting my truck out of the impound yard almost $400.

[BLK2KSS]

Nice Jason.
So that on the picture. I'd the brain box? Is that the one that activates at WOT? or I'm wrong?
The solenoid for the purge does it automatically stops on purge or u have to hold it?
I was on another forum and the guys said to get my nitrous kit done and a that is about $2000 that's seems high to me.
I seen kits for $380-580.

Yup, the purple box in the pic is what is called the "brain box". It has both the nitrous and fuel solenoids in it along with the gizmo that reads the WOT from the TPS. A wire runs from it to the TPS. It really is pretty straight forward and not too hard at all. I have my purge wired to a push button that is only activated while my finger is on it. Some have an on/off switch but I like the push button better for a purge. It will continue to purge until I take my finger off but it is bad for it to purge it for any longer than around 15-20 sec. I don’t even do it that long. I just tap it a few times for a sec or two. About cost, I will say that it always always always costs more than you think it will. I went over budget on mine and I’m still not done yet lol. What you need to do is write out everything you think you will need, add up all the prices and then add a couple hundred bucks for a cushion for when you need to grab those last minute things here and there. Don’t forget to add in the cost for a tune as well. When I’m totally done I will be around $2,000 as well just on all the nitrous stuff, not including everything else I did too. But when you think about it, all the guys going with heads/cam or forced induction will be spending a whole lot more for not that much more performance so it really is your best bang for your buck out there.

Seems simple to
Install probably in person looks a little harder lol.


But I'm a have to wait cuz the money I had I spent it on getting my truck out of the impound yard almost $400.

It really isnt very hard. Just make sure you know where you want everything before you start mounting and splicing wires. Mock everything up and plan it out at least a few times before you decide to hook everything up.

[WICKEDLS1]

But when you think about it, all the guys going with heads/cam or forced induction will be spending a whole lot more for not that much more performance so it really is your best bang for your buck out there. .

or you can do like me and go with h/c and nitrous

[BLK2KSS]

or you can do like me and go with h/c and nitrous

true that!

[WICKEDLS1]

true that!

she is definately fast when the tires stop spinning lol but as always its never fast enough and i am starting to get used to the 150 so idk what to do from here besides F/I or possibly a 408 with BIGGG heads and cam its only money

[Ed Blown Vert]

...But when you think about it, all the guys going with heads/cam or forced induction will be spending a whole lot more for not that much more performance so it really is your best bang for your buck out there...

I have done both FI and Nitrous. You are correct, Nitrous is the best bang for the buck. And will cure the quick fix for speed. But I got tired of filling the bottle and waiting for it to heat up.
Nothing like part-throttle boost to get you going on the freeway.

But you should be able to get way for around $1000

[35th-ANV-SS]

Don't forget how badass a SC sounds

Learning a lot from this thread about Nitrous. Good info.

[BLK2KSS]

Don't forget how badass a SC sounds

Learning a lot from this thread about Nitrous. Good info.

Yeah, If I had the extra coin I would have went the route yoou went.

[BLK2KSS]

I have done both FI and Nitrous. You are correct, Nitrous is the best bang for the buck. And will cure the quick fix for speed. But I got tired of filling the bottle and waiting for it to heat up.
Nothing like part-throttle boost to get you going on the freeway.

But you should be able to get way for around $1000

Yeah I hear ya. Filling the bottle is something I will have to deal with but having a spare will help. As for the heating up part, Im about to pull the trigger on a nano system I think to solve that lil dilemma.

[98maro]

i agree with job, great info on this thread, thanks everyone for the help

on the install a ford guy knows how to install them, i dont know if i should trust him since he loves ford lol

i should give it a try once i find the kit that fits me...

[98maro]

Don't forget how badass a SC sounds

Learning a lot from this thread about Nitrous. Good info.

if i had the $ i will def get the s/c
im sure it sounds badass