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Thread: clutch choosin
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07-02-2010, 03:29 AM #21
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
what clutch are you running??
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07-02-2010, 03:30 AM #22
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
The reason I ask is that it could be is a weak pressure plate. You spin the pressure plate up to 6000 rpms and the centrifugal loads on the pressure plate might be greater then the return load from the pressure plate springs.
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07-02-2010, 06:19 AM #23
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07-03-2010, 02:36 AM #24
very good choice. he is actually the person who designed the Monster clutch and had his design stolen from him. He has since made a couple minor changes that greatly increases its strength. His stage 3 is more durable than the Monster stage 6. You can also opt to get a chromoly flywheel.
I had his stage 3 installed over 3 years ago and didn't have any problems... I just went back to Jason last month and had him install a brand new stage 3, just because I wanted a new clutch...lol. (a little preventative maintenance)... I had around 500 flywheel HP for over 2 years with it, then over 620 flywheel HP with my new motor for the past year with no problems. and yes I went back with a stage 3 from him again. I reccommend his clutch to anybody who drives a M6, and he stands by his product.
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07-03-2010, 05:29 AM #25
Why would you replace a clutch that didn't need to be replaced? Do you shit money?
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07-03-2010, 06:23 AM #26
I'm running a SPEC 3+ with the billet flywheel and I changed the master to a tick proformence adjustable and I love it my pedal never sticks anymore and it's got a firmer pedal which I really like ......I also like how you can now adjust the pedal to move your engagement point !! The drill mod is kinda a half ass way to fix it IMO if your gong to do it do it right
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07-03-2010, 06:25 AM #27
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07-03-2010, 12:19 PM #28
lmfao, nah, but I do make a descent living. In reality though, I had a noise that sounded like a coke can being crushed around the firewall and found out that one of the dow pins for the transmission had fallen through into the bell housing area (must of been loosened back in June of last year when the new motor was installed cause I haven't had the tranny off since and I had been hearing it every once in a while for quite a while) and it chewed up the pressure plate pretty good. I coulda gotten away with reinstalling the clutch as it didn't damage anything important, but I thought "what the hell" might as well while I have it in the shop. The disk was a little worn from 3+ years of driving so why not freshen everything up, especially since I may be spraying within the next year.
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07-03-2010, 02:06 PM #29
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07-04-2010, 07:16 AM #30
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07-04-2010, 07:17 AM #31
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07-05-2010, 05:13 AM #32
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08-01-2010, 03:45 AM #33
So when i went to the track yesterday and launched it 2.001 60ft decent, my clutch acted up even worse than before stuck in 3rd and 4th....It seems the harder i launch the worse off i am. Any suggestions before yanking that tranny out and doing the slave and clutch itself? Master maybe???? I do have a 99 and i hear that this year has junk hydrolics.
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08-01-2010, 04:20 AM #34
Also if i buy a new master, does it matter if i get the GM part or some other one? gm part is 148 plus shipping or i can get one at the store near me for 69 is it going to matter much?
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08-01-2010, 05:53 AM #35
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Madison, WI
- Posts
- 7,006
1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold- 2001 Silverado Z71
yes it matters. The autozone, Oreilly's, Napa, etc clutch masters are junk. You'll definitely want a GM or Tick. Some people really like the Ram master also.
And the more I read about this sticky clutch problem, the more I'm convinced that a weak pressure plate is just about as common or more common cause then the hydraulics.Last edited by Cutlass; 08-01-2010 at 06:02 AM.
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08-01-2010, 06:10 AM #36
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08-02-2010, 07:05 AM #37
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08-02-2010, 07:30 AM #38
Well, the regular GM isn't adjustable. And that's the whole issue I have with it.
I won't do anything but adjustable on these things. So it's either the Ram or the Tick.
The Ram is cheaper, But the Tick comes with a larger reservoir for more capacity, and uses an adapter on the firewall. Supposed to be a better piece.
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08-02-2010, 01:41 PM #39
Last edited by Camaro69Mac; 08-02-2010 at 02:15 PM.
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08-02-2010, 03:02 PM #40
Guess it depends if you need the adjustment.
The new LS6 clutch in my wifes car would grab right off the floor, and made it really tough to drive for me, and she wouldn't even drive it at all. Even with the spacer installed behind the bearing clutch engagement was rediculously close to the floor.
So for me I had no choice but to install an adjustable master cylinder. I used the Ram, which is basically a GM unit with an adjustable rod installed. So it doesn't technically move as much fluid as say,,,a Tick unit. But it did give me the adjustability I needed. My clutch now engages about half way up, much easier to shift, and my wife can now drive the car.
Honestly, I'll never go back to a non adjustable setup. I'm so used to driving stick cars with mechanical linkage, and having the ability to adjust the free play to suit my driving style. So not having that ability on a 4th gen was just crazy to me. I'll probably try the Tick unit next and see how that one works.Last edited by Firebirdjones; 08-02-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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