Finally happened

**blackbirdbrain89** · 07-16-2009, 09:26 PM

Originally Posted by flipsutter

Do you think its worth getting an adjustable master or just sticking with one from the 01-02?

well u can make one with ur stock master cylinder but it takes some know how and theres a thread on tech on it i did it and works fine...

ps do the drill mod that seems to be the issue the weather its to blame.. the change in temps makes watter form all over the place and makes the line stick making the peadle stay in of out just my .02

**flipsutter** · 07-26-2009, 06:56 PM

Evening,

I got the clutch put in this weekend.
I bought the LS7 kit from KYSPeed and bought a new slave and pilot bearing also.

Only issue I'm running into is that its engaging right off of the floor. Maybe half an inch before it starts to grab.

I plan on replacing the master as soon as I can.

Is it normal for the engagment to be right on the floor and then work its way back?

Any idea's?

**Y2KArcticSS** · 07-26-2009, 08:33 PM

Originally Posted by flipsutter

Evening,

I got the clutch put in this weekend.
I bought the LS7 kit from KYSPeed and bought a new slave and pilot bearing also.

Only issue I'm running into is that its engaging right off of the floor. Maybe half an inch before it starts to grab.

I plan on replacing the master as soon as I can.

Is it normal for the engagment to be right on the floor and then work its way back?

Any idea's?

Yes, that is that new clutch feeling. It will work it's way down the pedal as you drive more. Make sure you take it easy for a few hundred miles or so.

**flipsutter** · 07-27-2009, 06:23 AM

Well,

I think the master went out in it now.

This morning has sucked beyond belief. My V6 won't start - Fuel pump?!

. I go to get into my v8 and put it in reverse it goes.. back into 1st.. it won't. Now it won't go into any gear at all. I'm guessing the master went out in it now..

**blackcar** · 07-27-2009, 06:35 AM

Originally Posted by blackcar

sounds like what mine was doing when the master went out.

**flipsutter** · 07-27-2009, 08:27 AM

Yeah lol! I ended up having to walk to work this morning.

**BlackSS1** · 07-27-2009, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by flipsutter

Well,

I think the master went out in it now.

This morning has sucked beyond belief. My V6 won't start - Fuel pump?!

. I go to get into my v8 and put it in reverse it goes.. back into 1st.. it won't. Now it won't go into any gear at all. I'm guessing the master went out in it now..

Sounds like you already decided, but I can't help but plug the Tick master cylinder again. Just got one and love it. Moves more fluid and great pedal feel. The price seems high only until you drive it.

Best of luck getting everything back up and runnin

**pajeff02** · 07-27-2009, 06:24 PM

GM Parts Direct recommends that you e-mail them with the part number and application to verify that it is correct. If I remember right there is a link to do this. I recently had to verify the part number for a MAF for our '02. I e-mailed and received confirmation with a few hours.

**flipsutter** · 08-31-2009, 01:40 PM

Hey Guys,

Well I just got in the master from Kyspeed.com. I bought the Tick one! I plan on getting it in sometime this week or weekend. Does any one have any writeups on installing this part?

I can't wait to drive it again!

On a side note. How hard is it to replace the rack? I found the leak the other day.

**blackcar** · 08-31-2009, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by flipsutter

Hey Guys,

Well I just got in the master from Kyspeed.com. I bought the Tick one! I plan on getting it in sometime this week or weekend. Does any one have any writeups on installing this part?

I can't wait to drive it again!

On a side note. How hard is it to replace the rack? I found the leak the other day.

When I changed mine I think I used the write up on installuniversity.com. The hardest part was trying to get the bolts thru the master and into the firewall while my 7 year old started the nuts.

**Firebirdjones** · 08-31-2009, 03:59 PM

Originally Posted by flipsutter

Evening,

I got the clutch put in this weekend.
I bought the LS7 kit from KYSPeed and bought a new slave and pilot bearing also.

Only issue I'm running into is that its engaging right off of the floor. Maybe half an inch before it starts to grab.

I plan on replacing the master as soon as I can.

Is it normal for the engagment to be right on the floor and then work its way back?

Any idea's?

Installing the adjustable is the way to go in my opinion. Something GM should have engineered into the car from the get go.
My wifes 2000 had the same issue, grabbed right off the floor with a new LS6 clutch setup and master. Shouldn't be that way, very difficult to drive, Once was enough for my wife,,,she wouldn't even drive the car. I decided to put a couple thousand miles on the car,,,,it never got better. And you couldn't even think about shifting in a hurry,,,you had to make sure your left foot was burried in the carpet before even moving that shifter, sometimes difficult to go into gear etc.....

I decided to go adjustable and never looked back. Piece of cake to adjust, I now have the clutch grabbing about half way up, which is great for aggressive driving, and my wife can now drive the car without issues.

**Blue Thunder 42** · 09-01-2009, 06:30 AM

Had the trans rebuilt in June, said they put a new slave in, charged me for it. It shifted great but if you tried getting hard into it above 4k rpm the clutch pedal would stick to the floor still, so I didn't drive it too hard. well about a week ago went to drive it and the shifter would stick in every gear and I had to push it into each gear a little extra and wiggle with the clutch engaged and it would come out of the gear finally. I ordered the McLeod adj master the other day put it in, it feels great but it's still sticking in gears, but not as bad and if you drive it hard the clutch pedal still sticks to the floor???
Bad or never changed out slave is what I'm thinking.
If you try to change gear with your clutch engaged you can't, this is sort of what it's like? So I think the slave is weak or bad and not disengaging the clutch all the way, but it's not grinding?
anybody?
Also I took it on some erands today to see it would get better or was livable. And after 20 miles I'm happy to say it seems to almost never get stuck in any of the gears. Maybe just a bit sticky here and there.
Could have it been air in the system that has worked it's way out via the reservoir? Didn't drive it hard enough to see if it's still sticks to the floor in high rpm.
FYI Flipsutter I was able to get the one bolt in the firewall closest to the left side of the car and started the nut a bit to keep it place. I wasted about a hour trying to get the other bolt through the firewall. I took a break and had a beer and thought about it. I loosed the bolt half way back on the one side that I couldn't get started and bam it went in the hole no problem.
Hope this helps and good luck with your install.
P.S. Oh also mine didn't come with nuts and my factor nuts had a different thread pitch so I had to go to the hardware store and pick up two 5/16" nuts with 20 pitch for those bolts the McLeod came with.
I hate when these cars start having weird clutch issues you cant figure out.

**flipsutter** · 09-04-2009, 09:26 PM

Ok. I'm right this after I just spent the last 5 hours trying to put the master into my car.

First off. The whole 60 to 90 minutes is BS

That damn wireloom is what held up us the most.

Taking the connection out of the transmission was another. R

Right now its sitting at a friends house on ramps. Only thing I now have left is putting the metal rod on the clutch pedal, BTW Can any one help me with this? How can I make this easier!!!?!?!?!

And then bleeding it. What is the best way in doing this? Step by step?

**Blue Thunder 42** · 09-05-2009, 04:01 AM

Sorry I was asleep by the time you posted your troubles

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm

If you follow this you shouldn't have any problems. And the two comments I put in my post about the master should have helped a bit also. The McLeod master directions say you should bleed system
by having someone pump pedal slowly twice and hold it down while you loosen that 7/16's bleeder screw for the clutch slave cylinder.
retighten the bleeder screw and let them release the pedal back up.
Keep doing this process until all the air is out.
After two or three times check fluid lvl because it can suck it out pretty quickly and it goes dry while your bleeding your going to have to start all over again.
Good luck

**rideon1200** · 09-05-2009, 05:21 AM

Maybe I am a old fool (45) or not down with the times.(did I use that right) Back in my days, If you paid someone to do something and two days later it broke, you took it back. It still works that way at the places I take my cars to. If I tried too fix it, then they could charge me for possibly screwing it up. Guys come on, you paid someone to do it, get the hell out from under the car and take it back. Time for a ball check.

**flipsutter** · 09-08-2009, 08:26 AM

Well,

I got it all working.

Here is what I have left. I must still have air in the master. I have bled it I don't know how many times. It must be stuck at the top. I"m going to find a really sharp incline, park it, and open the resivore, and try and get the air out that way.

Yesterday it poped out of first while taking off at a stop light. This is new! Could it be caused by the air still left in the system? Or am I looking at something internal to the transmission?

Also on the adjustment part. It engages right about where the stock one was. Is this normal or should the engagment point be closer to the floor?