1980 C3 Corvette to LS2/T56

[Myko]

I have hit a wall with the swap. Work keeps getting in the way of my little hobby!

I have gotten most wires from the OEM engine harness identified and labeled. My thought was to bypass the under dash fuse block and put a second fuse and relay center under the hood for the fans. The fuel pump is another problem. The battery is behind the driver's seat. So, to use the same block for the fuel pump would mean wiring from the battery forward to the engine bay, then back to the rear bumper. Seems like a lot of unnecessary wire to look at if there is a problem.

I am not sure I'm understanding the fan wiring schematic yet. How do I get two 4 pole relays and one 5 pole relay wired into the two electric fans? Does the ground wire on the left fan feed back to the trinary relay? The left fan will run if the trinary switch makes the connection at A11 to complete the ground circuit? And when the B11 connection is broken there is still power to the right fan from the E11 connection on relay 43?

[michaelsucre]

interesting work done !!! cheers

[pajeff02]

You can simply run a heavier fused wire from the battery to power feed side of the relay for the fuel pump and mount the relay out back somewhere. On our '74, there are relays located in the rear center compartment, not sure about your '80. Your trigger wire for the pump is what will need to tie in up front somewhere.

I am going to shoot another mod this link to see if he knows why the fan wiring is set up this way.

[Cutlass]

The triple fan relay setup is there so the fans can run slow speed or high speed. When the #1 relay is on, the 2 fans are wired in series and run slow speed. When #1, #2, and #3 relays are on, the fans each have there own power and ground and run high speed.

[pajeff02]

Thanks! I could trace the power and ground on the schematic, but wasn't sure why they wired it that way.

[Myko]

The triple fan relay setup is there so the fans can run slow speed or high speed. When the #1 relay is on, the 2 fans are wired in series and run slow speed. When #1, #2, and #3 relays are on, the fans each have there own power and ground and run high speed.

Thank you. I was having a hard time wiring it in without really understanding how/why it works. I have had some time to get back in the shop and fab some parts to get the pedals and wiring parts installed. I am finally getting to the point where I can dream of putting the body back on the frame and turning the key... But, before I do I need to have the VATS removed from the ECU. I have gotten a few tips on who to send it to for a basic flash so I can start the car and drive it to a dyno someday. The only problem is every company I look into does not seem to support the E40 ECU from the '06 GTO LS2. I have looked into buying a product to do it myself but am not sure it would be a stand alone solution for my build.

I know programming is covered elsewhere but I would appreciate suggestions for a guy who 1) just wants to get the car started, 2) will need to reprogram after build is finalized, 3) has a less common transplant, and 4) lives 250 miles from a dyno programmer. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mike

[Myko]

Anyone? I have e-mailed Frost but the site clearly says the Tune by Mail page answers most questions. The '06 GTOs E40 isn't listed so I don't hold out a lot of hope that they will be able to help. Any ideas how I can get this car started?

[Myko]

I got the ECU back from Tuned by Frost. Very fast service and great communication.

The triple fan relay setup is there so the fans can run slow speed or high speed. When the #1 relay is on, the 2 fans are wired in series and run slow speed. When #1, #2, and #3 relays are on, the fans each have there own power and ground and run high speed.

This now makes sense to me! Wow, I can be dense Wiring the fans and fuel pump this weekend. I just want to be sure on this: On the diagram there is one 12V signal that is 'Hot at all times' and one that is 12V when 'switch is On or Start'. Can I bring both wires from the alternator or will the 'Hot at all times" need to come from the starter?

I have the belt drive finalized. I have to drop the body on to fit the tunnel and make sure the shifter fits before I get a drive shaft built.

I am still hoping to use the stock tank instead of buying a tank that will use a modern style fuel pump. If I don't come up with a solid line modification I will probably buy a tank that uses the GTO pump I have and fit it to the chassis so I don't have to worry about leaks after it is assembled. That would be horrible.

[Cutlass]

"Hot at all times" needs to be hooked up to battery positive. So, the battery, Alt, or starter is fine. The "key on" needs to turn on and off with key.