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Thread: LS7 clutch equivalent
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07-26-2012, 03:54 PM #21
Maybe it's my phone, but I don't see anything but a blank picture...
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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08-07-2012, 09:31 PM #22
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Arlington,Texas
- Age
- 33
- Posts
- 815
Silver/Black- 00' z28-R.I.P 00' WS6 M6
well i got the ls7 clutch installed. This thing is a night and day difference over my stock clutch. It engages as soon as my foot leaves the floor, almost like an on/off switch. I've heard that the ls7 clutch is supposed to feel exactly like the ls1, but that def. wasn't the case for me. My stock clutch wouldn't even begin to engage until about 60% of the way up. I also had the fluid changed, had the drill mod done, and discovered that my stock clutch was indeed totally toast, almost no friction material left and heat spots everywhere. So all of that may explain why the new clutch feels so drastically different.
It's gonna take me some time getting used to this engage point though, it's almost as if I'm having to re-learn how to drive my car lol.M6, MS3 Cam, FAST 92/92, LS7 Clutch, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, Lid, K&N, OBX LT's, 3in ORX True Duals, KYB AGX shocks, BMR 3-Point SFCs, BMR springs, BMR Adj. PHR, LCA Relos, STB, 315 NT555Rs, DeepDish C5Z06s.
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08-08-2012, 03:48 AM #23
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08-08-2012, 05:35 AM #24
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08-08-2012, 03:39 PM #25
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Texas
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
thats exactly what mine did...mines actually really close to the top now, but i kind of like it there, i can leave my heel on the floor and shift pretty damn quick
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08-08-2012, 04:41 PM #26
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Arlington,Texas
- Age
- 33
- Posts
- 815
Silver/Black- 00' z28-R.I.P 00' WS6 M6
I'm not picky, so I can work with it either way. It's just that it takes a bit more finesse to control with it grabbing so close to the floor
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08-09-2012, 12:04 PM #27
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Texas
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
it will, i stalled mine several times for the first month or so
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08-09-2012, 01:36 PM #28
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09-21-2012, 04:16 PM #29
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Johnstown,PA
- Age
- 55
- Posts
- 1,104
Silver- 1999 Trans-Am, 2012 Sonic
read this thread through and pretty much like the idea of this set up any more info on the complete job that I should read? Not sure what your talking about Tick or the drill mod and master cylinder why theses should be done? Iam like farmer a newbie to this standered stuff... Any help would be great
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09-25-2012, 11:37 AM #30
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Texas
- Age
- 37
- Posts
- 4,546
2001 3.8 Black - sold- 2000 SS Black M6
a basic rundown, is that our stock master cylinders kind of suck. theres a fitting somewhere that restricts the flow of fluid between the master and slave, causing a dead or soggy pedal under aggressive driving. the "drill mod" requires removing this fitting and drilling it out a few millimeters, so that fluid moves back and forth easier. OR, like i did, as well as many others, replace the entire set-up with a Tick adjustable master, and take care of the problem all together.
If you are a cheap and or mechanically savvy, the drill mod is a good choice. If youre like me and would rather just throw money at the problem until it goes away, get the Tick.
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09-26-2012, 08:47 PM #31
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Location
- Arlington,Texas
- Age
- 33
- Posts
- 815
Silver/Black- 00' z28-R.I.P 00' WS6 M6
Oh and Fyi, after about 500 miles the pedal engage point backed up all the way to the original ls1 clutch engage point. So now it feels exactly like my ls1 clutch, except with a much smoother engage and no slipping lol
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09-27-2012, 02:02 AM #32
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
Should be getting my new LS7 clutch and rebuilt T-56 today, gonna be interesting to see the difference. Too Fast has 117k now, and the pilot bearing went out causing damage to the transmission.
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12-31-2012, 06:28 PM #33
it's all about feel... you need to know how to operate your car, not just drive it... it's like making love.. gotta know what she likes and how hard you can slam it... just my .02...
my dr's hook hard... or my clutch/flywheel are pussies... i run 555r's and have a hay's street/strip clutch and new centerforce flywheel. just the other weekend, my tires hooked harder than my clutch again... clutch/flywheel combo only has 5k on it maybe? and i was using my line lock. went 1st to 2nd gear and the clutch got smelly... no drill mod or anything tho... i really hope that's the contributing factor....ceramic pacesetters, 3" tsp rumbler tds, clear lid, frost mail order, umi sfcs + stb, 6 pt cage, b&m line lock, short throw, hays clutch, centerforce flywheel, 160 stat, couple fancy new seats, cags-air-egr-rear seat delete...
n2o in the works
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12-31-2012, 06:32 PM #34
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01-01-2013, 05:03 AM #35
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 5,188
Black- 2000 WS6 6spd Hooker LT
Aftermarket high friction clutches will up the chances of choppy engagement. It's usually a trade off for the higher bite of the clutch.
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01-02-2013, 11:17 AM #36
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01-02-2013, 12:33 PM #37
My Spec Stage 3+ was at the beginning. I'd say for about 1,000 miles almost. Especially on take off. Pretty smooth now. Have about 15K miles on it. Most of those are with 500rwhp, and some hard launches in there (5,000+RPM dumps).
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