noticeable ticking

**Raoul-Duke** · 04-24-2008, 06:09 AM

ok soo now i have a tick coming from the engine. i know that ls1's make odd noises sometimes and can be noisy in general once in awhile..but for the past couple of days i have been experiencing a noticeable ticking..if the cars running and im in the car with the windows down you can hear it..oor for ex. when im in a driveup like taco bell you can rrrreeeaallly hear it...i guess because of the proximity of the wall to the car soo the sound will bounce off of it and get stronger....same goes for my garage..soo what can this be?? how can i fix it?? i just hope i dont have to take my valve covers off and start tinkering around....further good news, i think my shakin problems are brake related =) soo maybe should be a quick fix

**Georgiarocker** · 04-24-2008, 12:04 PM

Originally Posted by Raoul-Duke

ok soo now i have a tick coming from the engine. i know that ls1's make odd noises sometimes and can be noisy in general once in awhile..but for the past couple of days i have been experiencing a noticeable ticking..if the cars running and im in the car with the windows down you can hear it..oor for ex. when im in a driveup like taco bell you can rrrreeeaallly hear it...i guess because of the proximity of the wall to the car soo the sound will bounce off of it and get stronger....same goes for my garage..soo what can this be?? how can i fix it?? i just hope i dont have to take my valve covers off and start tinkering around....further good news, i think my shakin problems are brake related =) soo maybe should be a quick fix

Replace your oil pump o-ring. It's worn out and allowing air to seep into the oil flow. 99.9% can guarantee it's your #7 piston (rear driver's side) which is the first to receive oil, and since there's a small amount of aireation, your #7 lifter is not pumping up completely. This phenomena has caused many, many folks to draw blood from banging their heads against the wall after several engine tear downs and rebuilds.

Do that first. 99% chance the tick will go bye-bye.

**GULLETT17** · 04-24-2008, 12:09 PM

Originally Posted by Georgiarocker

Replace your oil pump o-ring. It's worn out and allowing air to seep into the oil flow. 99.9% can guarantee it's your #7 piston (rear driver's side) which is the first to receive oil, and since there's a small amount of aireation, your #7 lifter is not pumping up completely. This phenomena has caused many, many folks to draw blood from banging their heads against the wall after several engine tear downs and rebuilds.

Do that first. 99% chance the tick will go bye-bye.

interesting. . . does this explain the start up tick that many ls1's get?

**Georgiarocker** · 04-24-2008, 12:15 PM

Originally Posted by GULLETT17

interesting. . . does this explain the start up tick that many ls1's get?

Although the culprit is the same, symptoms have varied. Mine would tick on startup. It would go away at warm idle. However, drive it a mile or so and the tick would be there. Bring it back to the garage and let her idle for about 2 minutes and it would go away again!

There's been much discussion on this o-ring issue, just not enough time for me to go find the threads before I get off work. I'll try to provide the info tonight after dinner.

Here's something to chew on before I leave. Check out my post on #59 and what followed.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...=georgiarocker

**Raoul-Duke** · 04-24-2008, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by Georgiarocker

Replace your oil pump o-ring. It's worn out and allowing air to seep into the oil flow. 99.9% can guarantee it's your #7 piston (rear driver's side) which is the first to receive oil, and since there's a small amount of aireation, your #7 lifter is not pumping up completely. This phenomena has caused many, many folks to draw blood from banging their heads against the wall after several engine tear downs and rebuilds.

Do that first. 99% chance the tick will go bye-bye.

Originally Posted by Georgiarocker

Although the culprit is the same, symptoms have varied. Mine would tick on startup. It would go away at warm idle. However, drive it a mile or so and the tick would be there. Bring it back to the garage and let her idle for about 2 minutes and it would go away again!

There's been much discussion on this o-ring issue, just not enough time for me to go find the threads before I get off work. I'll try to provide the info tonight after dinner.

Here's something to chew on before I leave. Check out my post on #59 and what followed.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...=georgiarocker

huh?? wow thanks man! if u say ur 99.9% sure.. then im def gonna do that. ill wait for your sticky on how to.. how hard u think it'll be??

**Georgiarocker** · 04-24-2008, 04:22 PM

Originally Posted by Raoul-Duke

huh?? wow thanks man! if u say ur 99.9% sure.. then im def gonna do that. ill wait for your sticky on how to.. how hard u think it'll be??

Can't post a how-to sticky for this, sorry. My tuner/installer did mine. I'm just passing along the info.

**Raoul-Duke** · 04-24-2008, 04:41 PM

Originally Posted by Georgiarocker

Can't post a how-to sticky for this, sorry. My tuner/installer did mine. I'm just passing along the info.

huh. i see. does anyone know where the oil pump is at and is it easy to access for someone to do this job themselves?

**Spieldawg** · 04-24-2008, 08:51 PM

Oil pump is a PITA. You gotta pull the water pump, crank pulley, take the timing chain cover off, drop the oil pan, and pull the 10 mm bolt out. You'll need 2 gallons of Dexcool.. premixed, new water pump gaskets, new o-ring, new crank pulley bolt.. front main seal, and you'll probably want a new timing chain cover gasket too.

you might as well do a cam/spring swap while your in there... Oh yea the radiator will probably have to come out too..

**Raoul-Duke** · 04-25-2008, 05:34 AM

Originally Posted by Spieldawg

Oil pump is a PITA. You gotta pull the water pump, crank pulley, take the timing chain cover off, drop the oil pan, and pull the 10 mm bolt out. You'll need 2 gallons of Dexcool.. premixed, new water pump gaskets, new o-ring, new crank pulley bolt.. front main seal, and you'll probably want a new timing chain cover gasket too.

you might as well do a cam/spring swap while your in there... Oh yea the radiator will probably have to come out too..

pppfffff fuck that. i'll sell the bitch before that,lol. but thanks though man

**05gtoautoX** · 04-28-2008, 05:40 PM

mine has "ticked" since it's been brand new, it has 30k miles, I'm just wondering what kind of damage this is causing, maybe none? maybe it's just not allowing the cam to reach it's potential lift on that particular cylinder, which would cause a lack of power and if it happens to get worse, meaning the lifter has less oil in it than before then it could potentially cause a back fire through the intake and make it undrivable.

**kensz28** · 02-07-2009, 03:10 PM

My 98 ticks after driving for 30 minutes and it is the number one lifter I GUARANTEE it. I run around town and it's good but oil psi is 60-70 at idle cold, 40 warm, and I've used regular, synthetic and everything in between. I now have rotella 10w-40 and lucas. Still ticks. Any thoughts?

**qwkgto** · 02-07-2009, 03:22 PM

Originally Posted by Raoul-Duke

ok soo now i have a tick coming from the engine. i know that ls1's make odd noises sometimes and can be noisy in general once in awhile..but for the past couple of days i have been experiencing a noticeable ticking..if the cars running and im in the car with the windows down you can hear it..oor for ex. when im in a driveup like taco bell you can rrrreeeaallly hear it...i guess because of the proximity of the wall to the car soo the sound will bounce off of it and get stronger....same goes for my garage..soo what can this be?? how can i fix it?? i just hope i dont have to take my valve covers off and start tinkering around....further good news, i think my shakin problems are brake related =) soo maybe should be a quick fix

check headers /gaskets and or any gaskest under car ,look for black soot oozing from any leak maybe when car is cold water dripping from leak,thats condensation.. where exhaust butts together.