How to Bypass your VATS

I have been asked many times how to bypass the VATS. I have posted on another thread that if you run into this problem that you could send me a PM. But instead of replying to ALL those who have this problem, I have decided to do a write up.

So if a MOD would do me/us the favor of making this a sticky here, or in the proper section, that would be great.:approved:


I decided to do it this way because I did not want to cut my VATS system. I just wanted to be able to use my car till I got it fixed. I did fix the problem the correct way later. Which is by buying a new ignition cylinder and having it installed. BUT that is a $300.00 fix at the stealership:villagers:. I was lucky to have a friend install mine for free.


So lets begin......

1. You need to know what resistance your key has before you even begin. Your f body has 1 of 15 keys that operate your car. It is up to YOU to find out which of the 15 it is. The best way to do this yourself is to use an ohm reader and measure your key. I would recomend testing both keys (if you have both sets) to get an accurate reading. To use the ohm reader to test your key, place the readers (one should be red and the other black) on the metal chips of your key. See picture. Your ohm reader will give you a measurement. Write this down. Do the same with the other key, and write it down. If both keys are good, you should get the same reading twice. If they are different then you will need to buy two resistors, one for each key. You will have to try the bypass twice to figure out which resistor will work for you. The part you are trying to measure is the small metal piece in the black oval.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...asso22/key.jpg

2. Once you have the measurement go get your resistor. Price should be under 25 cents. Here are some sample resistors. Yours may be of a different color, so don't think that since yours doesn't look like this, that it is wrong. Mine was blue in color.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...-resistors.jpg

Then fold the wire like this...
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ld-460x180.jpg

3. Now time to go to your car. You will need to remove the bottom dash cover. It is held with two plastic clips and two screws (phillis head I believe). The plastic clips look like this.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama010.jpg and this..http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama009.jpg
And are located by your OBDII plug and above your E Brake. The two screw that hold it in place are further back.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama012.jpg

4. Disconnect your trunk release switch. This makes it easier to do what is needed in the next steps. Like this you can pull the cover off and set it in the back seat, out of the way.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama011.jpg

5. Now locate your wire harness that controls the VATS. It should have two wires. On set of wires has two white wires, the other side has one purple with a white line and the other one is white with a black line.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama001.jpg

6. Disconnect the harness.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama003.jpg

7. Insert your resistor thru the back side of the purple/white wire and white/black wire. There is no right or wrong way to put the resistor in. Just as long as you put one wire in each side. It should go ALL the way in. You want to be sure that the resistor touches the the wire inside.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama007.jpg

8.At this pioint you are basically done. Go ahead and try to turn your car on. If your car does not start, pull the resistor out. Try to put the resistor in thru the front. Make sure that you can see that you are touching both metal pieces with the resistor. Try to start the vehicle now. If it does start, then you just need to keep trying to put the resistor in better from the back. I had to try putting in the resistor in three different times to finally get it in the right way. Sometimes it feels like it is in, but it is not. If you try it from the front and it wont start then you might have a key issue. New keys run around $60.00.

9. Once you have installed the resistor and your car did start. Use some electrical tape to keep it in place.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...WS6mama008.jpg

10. Tuck away the wires and connect your trunk release switch. Replace the dash cover with the two screws and the plastic clips.

Now you are done, so when ever you feel like spending the $300 or find someone to do the job for you cheaper you still have all the original wiring in place.

This can also be used to do the remote start on your car, IF you have an automatic. Alarm stores can do this for you but will charge you close to $100.00, I know, I asked.

This took me less than 30 minutes to do and all I spent was 8 cents on the resistor.

:bow:

yep, you get a sticky :D Although I'm still a fan of cutting wires and using solder to secure it. :D I had no plans to ever fix mine though so yours definitely is better if you plan to fix/replace the piece in the column.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 0rion

yep, you get a sticky :D Although I'm still a fan of cutting wires and using solder to secure it. :D I had no plans to ever fix mine though so yours definitely is better if you plan to fix replace the piece in the column.

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Yeah you can cut and solder, but to me thats just more work. I like to work smarter not harder.:dodge:

A new switch cost around $70, and like stated above a friend hooked it up for free.:cool2:

Awesome write up:yup:


I'll add just a little to help with the troubleshooting part. You should do this step before putting in the resistor...otherwise you'll just be wasteing your time.

Once you disconnect the harness, put the key in the ignition and ohm check the wiring harness on the side with the two white wires.



If you get the value of the key then your problem with the VATS is somewhere else after the wiring harness...probably the BCM. The bypass won't work in this situation...

If you don't get the value of your key then there's a open somewhere before the wiring harness...or it could be the key itself. It's common for one of those white wires to break off the ignition cylinder after years of twisting...that is more then likely your problem. Either way the bypass will work if this is your situation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn

Awesome write up:yup:


I'll add just a little to help with the troubleshooting part. You should do this step before putting in the resistor...otherwise you'll just be wasteing your time.

Once you disconnect the harness, put the key in the ignition and ohm check the wiring harness on the side with the two white wires.



If you get the value of the key then your problem with the VATS is somewhere else after the wiring harness...probably the BCM. The bypass won't work in this situation...

If you don't get the value of your key then there's a open somewhere before the wiring harness...or it could be the key itself. It's common for one of those white wires to break off the ignition cylinder after years of twisting...that is more then likely your problem. Either way the bypass will work if this is your situation.

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Good add-on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn

Awesome write up:yup:


I'll add just a little to help with the troubleshooting part. You should do this step before putting in the resistor...otherwise you'll just be wasteing your time.

Once you disconnect the harness, put the key in the ignition and ohm check the wiring harness on the side with the two white wires.



If you get the value of the key then your problem with the VATS is somewhere else after the wiring harness...probably the BCM. The bypass won't work in this situation...

If you don't get the value of your key then there's a open somewhere before the wiring harness...or it could be the key itself. It's common for one of those white wires to break off the ignition cylinder after years of twisting...that is more then likely your problem. Either way the bypass will work if this is your situation.

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I'd like to add, I have seen the pellet in the key (and likely the inside contacts that receive it) quite worn down and the problem was intermittent. Every time the key sat in and still it read good. When it was being moved, it would make and break, and sometimes it would be on a break when the BCM was looking for it. I ended up using my giant digital strg scope and the samples showed breaks that were fast enough that the DMM never showed open. Just saying, if it looks good and there is a lot of wear on the key, or if the key has been replaced somewhere along the way that your issue may not be pass/fail.

Since the other end of the harness ( white wires) isn't going to be used anymore you could also use that to house the resistor and make it look a liitle cleaner. No extra cost and no electrical tape.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aquickbird

Since the other end of the harness ( white wires) isn't going to be used anymore you could also use that to house the resistor and make it look a liitle cleaner. No extra cost and no electrical tape.

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what I did was cut those white wires and solder my resistor in between the white wires and then plugged it back in. I've never been a huge fan of using electrical tape to secure things. I use it as a shielding because that's really it's purpose but I try to never use it to secure things if I can get away with it. I got burned over the years a few times trying that. Solder or spade connectors is the way to go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 0rion

what I did was cut those white wires and solder my resistor in between the white wires and then plugged it back in. I've never been a huge fan of using electrical tape to secure things. I use it as a shielding because that's really it's purpose but I try to never use it to secure things if I can get away with it. I got burned over the years a few times trying that. Solder or spade connectors is the way to go.

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agreed!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 0rion

electrical tape to secure things. I use it as a shielding because that's really it's purpose but I try to never use it to secure things if I can get away with it.

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Duct tape!!:devil:

I had to bypass my vats but I had to use I think 3 resistors because the raido shack didn't have just one that mached my key, just an fyi not sure if everyone will run into this problem. I saudered them in worked fine afterwards and have had no problems since.

Put the resistor in series with a hidden switch and you would still have some degree of the anti-theft feature

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robert 98

Put the resistor in series with a hidden switch and you would still have some degree of the anti-theft feature

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Man I never thought about that, I wonder if I should go back in and do that. what steps do you take?

i would take what ever legnth of wire you needed ( depends on where you put the switch, cut it solder your resistor in cut it again solder your switch in and put the two ends of the wire in where the resistor is in the example above

Cant you just solder the purple and white wire together....?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CamaroFan71

Cant you just solder the purple and white wire together....?

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no, the bcm is looking for a specific resistance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robert 98

i would take what ever legnth of wire you needed ( depends on where you put the switch, cut it solder your resistor in cut it again solder your switch in and put the two ends of the wire in where the resistor is in the example above

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Cool thanks I'll have to look into that.

Why is this not a sticky anymore? :think:

***nevermind.....I saw it in the tech sticky :sorry:

Haven't seen this thread in awhile..

thats alsome