Camshaft Guide - Information / Write up
When deciding a cam, there are many things to think about. From the application, goal, to driveability, there are many questions that require answers. The first few are questions that need to be answered in your thread or post if you asking this forum their opinion on what cam is for you. These are must haves. This thread will discuss almost everything possible camshaft related. From installs, requirements, questions/answers needed, Technical terms, How to's and some pricing.
Stock Camshaft Numbers -
Base Circle Dia.:
'97-'04 LS1 = 19.7mm / 0.776"
'01 LS6 = 19.3mm / 0.760"
'02 -'04 LS6 = 19.0mm / 0.748
1997-2000
0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117
2001 LS1
.500/0.500, 198/208 on 115.5LSA
2001 LS6
0.525/0.525, 204/211 on 116
2002 LS6
0.551/0.547, 204/218 on 117.5
GMPP Hot Cam
218/227 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.525" / 0.525" int/exh lift
112 LSA
6.0 LQ9
207/196 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.479" / 0.467" int/exh lift
116 LSA
This note taken from our sponsor's website, Kyspeed.com
New for the 2002 Corvette, the 405hp camshaft for the LS6 engine option. Please note that this cam has approximately a 0.050 smaller base circle than a stock LS1 camshaft. This smaller base circle will require longer pushrods for applications with stock length valves and no milling for the head surface. It is imperative that you check your pushrod length when purchasing this cam. The 2002 Z06 cylinder heads use a longer valve to make-up this difference!
Advertised Duration Exh.: 282
Advertised Duration Int.: 270
Camshaft Duration @ 0.050 in. I/E: 204 / 218
Camshaft Lift (in.) I/E: 0.551 / 0.541
Camshaft Type: Hydraulic Roller
Lobe Seperation Angle: 117.5
RPM Range: 2000 to 6200
"Near" Complete Camshaft Swap Parts List -
Tools Needed - CLICK HERE
Camshaft
Chrome Moly Pushrods [1]
Valve Springs - Upgraded
Ported Oil Pump [1]
Timing Chain
Timing Gears [1]
6-7 quarts of oil
Oil Filter
1-2 gallons of coolant
Gasket kit
Head Gasket Kit [2]
Tune
Valve Spring Compressor [3]
Air Hose Tool - To hold valves up [3]
Two 5/16's wooden dowels or, [3]
Speed Inc's Lifter holder metal rods [3]
Extra Valve Locks (Keepers) - [3]
Loc Tite - Red [3]
Head Bolts - (Stock or ARP) [2]
Crank Pulley Bolt - (Stock or ARP)
Lifters (LS7) [1] [2]
LS2 Lifter trays [1] [2]
[1] Note - Most, if not all will recommend buying these parts. They may not be a part that will not allow you to finish the job, but from a longevity aspect, they are highly recommended
[2] Note - This part will be needed if swapping heads, or changing lifters/trays
[3] Note - This part/tool (s) are required if doing the camshaft swap yourself, not paying a shop to install.
Questions to Answer if asking for Camshaft Advice
*If you start a thread, asking for camshaft referrals or advice, answering these questions will greatly help in getting you the answers you want*
1.What size engine displacement? Stock, stroker?
2. What heads? Stockers? Aftermarket? Milled? 5.3's? 5.7's? Need to know this.
3. Where do you REALLY want the power? Even though all these cams claim the same basic power band, does not mean that's where it is. A 228/228 is going to have a greater "power under the curve". When A MS3 is going to want to be spun higher to see the gains that a cam this size should show. There are cams out there that don't mind stock heads. But the MS series really like ported heads and a steep gear. Some may disagree. I'm using these two cams as a reference because they seem very popular around here. They are two completely different animals. Learn where and why. Power is completely different with the two cams listed above. Maybe try and find a happy medium.
4. How important is that "choppy idle" sound to you? Some people ask about cams a say they really just want a "choppy idle". If this is what your going for, do it. But buying a cam based on what sound its going to make is crazy, and you likely be disappointed.
5. What are you going to be doing with it? That is a very important question. Is this JUST a Daily Driver car? Will it see more strip(1/4, 1/8) then the street, or a mix of the two?
6.What are your other mods? Many, myself included disagree with putting a different cam in with zero exhaust work done. Long Tube headers, x pipe and cat back IMO is required. There are other setups, True duals sound great and flow great. Also a 4" Mufflex exhaust like mine. They all serve the same purpose. Your cam will like you for doing this first. Unless you don't mind choking the crap out of your 1000+ investment of a cam swap.
7. How much are you willing to spend? A cam swap is not cheap by any means. You can figure at least $1000 for the cam swap and component's. Plus a tune. Which, with MOST cams, is a absolute necessity. Your looking at around 1500. Plus labor if your not doing your own work. Then its funny how things add up. Maybe an under drive pulley? Injectors? A steeper gear? Getting rid of that horrible LS1 intake? Things can add up very quickly.
8. Be realistic with your cam. Just because you found 20 videos of a wild cammed F-body, vette, doesn't always mean that's whats right for you. Impulse buying is bad, and will cost you alot of money. RESEARCH. READ. The cam is the most important piece of your engine. It is essentially the "Brain" of your engine.
9. What Transmission? If auto, you WILL NEED a high stall converter. See number 7 above If your a M6, plan on saving for a rear end if you want to put any of that new power to the ground. With auto transmission, you want to MATCH the cam choice with the stall. That is VERY important. Again, don't just start buying parts without a good idea of where you want the car to be when its "done".
10. A custom cam can be great. Sometimes there's no way around it. There are 100's of off the shelf grinds out there. Start reading and looking at dino graphs to see if you like the power band.
11. Suspension. You can have that nasty cam with gobs of power. But think about suspension. Its not the most fun thing to buy (at least in my eyes) but it makes a difference and you will need it.
12. Match your heads to your cam. Big runners mean low air velocity. Which in turn means low "low end" torque. And vise versa, a smaller runner runs out of breath up top for a larger cubed motor. PRC seem to be making great numbers, and you can not go wrong with the AFR 205's on a stock cubed LS1/2/6. But they are pricey. But the mid range power/Torque on those heads are simply amazing. Its up to you. But you see where this is going. Match your mods. Plan it out, and don't piece it together. RESEARCH. READ.
13. Springs and Lift - A high lift with a nasty ramp rate (lobe on camshaft gets steeper)will require two things. A dual spring, which costs more. And, you will want to be changing springs approximately every 15,000-20,000 miles depending on your cam's lobe profile and lift. That's purely MY OPINION. It could be more, or less depending on your setup. Its just one more thing to keep in mind when looking for camshafts. FOR ANY CAMSHAFT SWAP, YOU MUST CHANGE VALVESPRINGS. STOCK SPRINGS CAN ONLY HANDLE A STOCK CAMSHAFT. If your swapping your cam without removing your heads, this valve spring compressor works GREAT. It will save you time, and maybe money. You don't need the air hose fitting if your removing your heads. That is used to fill the cylinder with compressed air to hold your valves up. This is the Crane Cams tool now offered by Speed Inc. SPEED INC VALVE SPRING TOOL
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What do you thing of this?????
:coffee: A COMP CAM 236/236/ 600/601 ON A 112 LSA, WITH HENDRICKS,
HEADS, HOOKER,S LONG TUNES, HOOKER Y-PIPE, SLP LOUD MOUTH,BACK
90MM, WORK LS6, MADOFOLD, 410 REAR, MOSER, A FULL SPOHN, UNDER,,
28'' HOOSER, Q,T,PRO, 9010 UP FRONT, 50,50 1N THE REAR, 3.5 UP FRONT,
A SUPER TUNE, IN A 2001 T/A, 3100 POUNDS, WITH A NEW N.O.S. PLATE,
200 SHOT.. THU A FULL SUPER CUNCH SET UP..:coffee:
AND A SPOHN PRO STOCK TORG ARM??????????