Now do a final once-over to make sure nothing is still attached before attempting to remove the rear end.
This next section is open to any ideas you may have as to what will be the most effective way for you to remove the rear end from the car. If you have a buddy you can simply lower it down and lift it out of the way. If you’re up on a lift you could use a transmission jack. I did my install solo, so I had to get a little creative. It also doesn’t help that my arms are better suited for lifting cookie sheets out of the oven instead of heavy chunks of metal (see, women can make ‘get back in the kitchen’ jokes too!) I used the jack stands to support the rear and lowered them a few notches so the rear could slide out from under the car. I then dragged the rear end out from under the car (looked something like a lion dragging a zebra across the savanna).
Now you see it
Now you don't. Who needs David Blaine when you have Keliente?
Once you have the rear end out of the car, notice where the hole for the brake line clip is towards the front of the 10 bolt. Make a few measurements and drill a similarly sized hole in your 12 bolt. You can either tap that hole and reuse the bolt, or slip a nut & bolt through it to retain the clip. Please disregard the fact that I put two holes in my 12 bolt in an attempt to perform this procedure. I got the old saying, ‘measure twice, cut once’ backwards!
Drilling a hole for the brake lines
If you would like to add fluid to the 12 bolt, now would be a good time. The fill hole is in the same location as stock. Otherwise it should be ready to bolt in. I also took the time to clean up the driveshaft tunnel/rear underneath of the car which had been showered with gear oil from an omnipresent pinion seal leak.
Now you can get your 12 bolt up onto jackstands, a jack, or in your buddy’s hands, and proceed to put it beneath the car. Line it up so that it is fairly close to where it needs to be. The rear components can be re-installed in whatever way is best for you. I positioned the rear as close to the torque arm as possible, and installed those bolts first. Be sure to use loctite on the torque arm bolts. If you decided to switch to an aftermarket torque arm, you will need longer bolts than what Moser supplies.
12 bolt lined up
Moser leaves a tapped hole with a barbed fitting in the top of the axle tube. You’ll need to get a slim piece of tubing and attach it to the chassis somewhere (leaving room for suspension travel). It is a vent tube, and if you don’t secure it properly you will lose fluid out of it.
From here the installation is all downhill. Reconnect the shocks and swaybar endlinks, as well as the control arms. When tightening the control arms, load the suspension. If not, you may experience some popping noises while driving.
Almost there!
Reinstalling the brake lines is rather simple. Bolt the small bracket to the front of the housing, and secure the metal brake lines to the rear in an appropriate manner. For the e-brake cables, you can reuse the metal holders from the 10 bolt (that are inserted in between the rear cover and the rear cover bolts). Slip the e-brake cable back through the hole and bend the prongs slightly so it does not want to slip back out. Attach it to the backing plate. When you first pull the e-brake again don’t panic when it comes all the way up, it is self-adjusting.
Reattaching the brake lines
E-brake cable back in place
If you have ASR, secure the wiring harness so it will not get torn up. I attached mine to the brake line. Reconnect the connectors to the sensors.
Reinstall sensors
To use your sway bar on your new 12 bolt, you will need to pick up a set of 3" exhaust clamps. If you opted for the thick aluminum cover you may have to get a little creative for the sway bar to fit over it.
Exhaust clamps attaching sway bar
Now do a final check - tighten/check all of the bolts, make sure the fluid is topped off, and that the brake lines are secured. Reinstall the rotors, then the calipers & hangers, and finally the wheels. Leave the car on jackstands and now you can proceed to ‘break in’ the rear end as specified by Moser. They recommend letting the car freewheel in a forward as well as a reverse gear for a few minutes each. Recheck the fluid afterwards, and take it for a test drive. Once driving, Moser recommends accelerating/decelerating a few times, and then allowing the gears to cool fully before driving again.
Success! 
