The Complete (Hopefully) Header Thread
It seems header threads are the most common thread here. Usually its always a few of the same questions. Which is totally fine guys. We all started somewhere and everyone understands saving money is a good thing. I'm going to list as many header companies, prices, sizes, off road Y Pipes, exhaust systems, flaws, perks, ideas as I can. Hopefully we can get this thread to have as much information about this very common question. If anyone has anything to add, please follow the format used here already.
Brand|Price|Header ID Size|Type of steel|Length|Pass Emissions|ORY Include
FlowTech - $249.99 - 1 3/4 - Black Painted - Full - No - No
Flow Tech - $499.99 - 1 3/4 - Ceramic Coated - Full - No - No
JBA - $683.99 - 1 5/8 - None - Shorty - Yes - No
JBA - $858.99 - 1 5/8 - Ceramic - Shorty - Yes - No
Edelbrock - 568.00 - 1 5/8 - Ceramic - Shorty - Yes - No
BBK - $299.99 - 1 3/4 - Chrome - Shorty - Yes - No
BBK - $399.99 - 1 3/4 - Ceramic - Shorty - Yes - No
BBK - $499.99 - 1 3/4 - Ceramic - Full - No - No
BBK - $369.99 - 1 3/4 - Chrome - Full - No - No
OBX - $325.00 - 1 3/4" - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
MAC - $549.99 - 1 3/4 - Painted - Full - No - Yes
MAC - $700.00 - 1 3/4 - Coated - Full - No - Yes
QTP - $734.00 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
QTP - $810.99 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
Stainless Works - $1175.49 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - Yes
Stainless Works - $1559.47 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - Yes - With Cats
Kooks - $959.99 - 1 3/4 or 1/7/8 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
Kooks - $1079.99 - 1 7/8 stepped - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
LPP - $450.00 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
Hooker - $399.99 - 1 3/4 - Painted - Full - No - No
Hooker - $499.99 - 1 3/4 - Ceramic - Full - No - No
Hooker - $699.99 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
Hooker - $599.99 - 1 7/8 - Painted - Full - No - No
Hooker - $999.99 - 1 7/8 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
ARH - $1442.99 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - Yes -With Cats
ARH - $1230.99 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - Yes - No Cats
ARH - $1251.99 - 1 7/8 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - Yes - No Cats
TSP - $499.99 - 1 7/8 - Coated - Full - No - No
Pacesetter - $369.99 - 1 3/4 - Coated - Full - No - No
Pacesetter - $269.99 - 1 3/4 - Painted - Full - No - No
Pacesetter - $369.99 - 1 3/4 - Painted - Full - No - Yes
DynaTech - $859.99 - 1 7/8 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
SLP - $349.99 - 1 1/2 - Coated - Shorty - Yes - No ** V6 Headers **
SLP - $724.99 - 1 3/4 - Coated - Full - No - Yes
SLP - $854.99 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
Bassani - $642.88 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Shorty - Yes - No
Edelbrock Victor Series - $250.00 - 1 3/4 - Coated - No - No
LG - $1495.00 - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - No - Yes - Corvette Only
Ebay Option's - $227.00 Est. - 1 3/4 - Stainless Steel - Full - No - No
ebay headers - $160.00 - 1 3/4 - stainless steel - full - yes - no
Off Road Y-Pipes
Kooks - $311.99 3" Stainless Steel Off Road Y-Pipe
Kooks - $606.99 3" Stainless Steel Catalytic Y-Pipe
Kooks - $449.99 Stainless Steel Off Road Y-Pipe, 3" Inlets to 4" Outlet
FlowTech - 129.99 Non Ceramic coated
FlowTech - 229.99 Ceramic coated
DynaTech - $119.99
SLP - $189.99 - Painted
Borla - $266.99 - Unknown
Pacesetter - $159.99
Bassani - Many to choose from. Range from $286.00 to $531.00
LPP - $200.00 - Stainless
LPP - $400.00 - Stainless - Catted Y-Pipe
Hooker - $189.99 - 3" - Made for 2253 & 2253A long tubes
Dougs - $201.99 - 3" - Aluminized
FlowMaster "Merge" - 2" through 3" - $40-$50. CLICK HERE and HERE
Do not buy a ORY for your stock manifolds. You will gain next to nothing for the money spent, and when you swap to headers you will be forced into buying another ORY.
Exhaust systems - Usually "Cat Back"
Corsa - $1072.99 - 3" diameter - Stainless Steel
MagnaFlow - $476.99 - 3" diameter - Stainless Steel
Basani True Dual - $935.99 Stainless Steel
SLP LoudMouth - $399.99
SLP LoudMouth II - $399.99
FlowMaster - $389.00 -
LPP/LS1 - $350.00 - True Dual w/ X pipe - Stainless Steel
GMMG - $750.00 - California Emission Certified
GMMG - $900.00 - Stainless Steel Tips - California Emission Certified
Borla - $840.99 - Stainless Steel
Borla - $1099.99 - Stainless Steel - 3" adjustable
Texas Speed Rumbler - $239.99 - 3" - No tips - Add tips - $100-$125
Stainless Works - $989.69 - 3" - Stainless Steel
Edelbrock - $350.00 - 3" - Aluminized
Ill try not to add too much opinion here. But the Magnaflow,Borla, and GMMG are all great pieces that sound awesome. SLP LM is a very loud and can get raspy with headers and a aftermarket camshaft. Despite common misconception, not all Flowmaster flow terrible. The 1 series Flowmaster flows great, and is very loud.
Almost ANY of the headers above that are full length will give the SAME sound and nearly the SAME horsepower numbers. Your paying for material and fit/finish.
That is just the major brands. If someone can chime in with their Ebay headers and prices, sizes, coating etc, I will add them to the list.
Any other system that any member has pricing, Size, Coating/material, Brand, Etc that would like to have it added, post up either here, PM, or visitor Message. I will add and we can get as close to a complete list of every exhaust part possible in one place.
After installing headers - 02 simulators - Tuning your rear O2 sensors out
After you have installed your longtube headers, you rear O2 sensors will now be so far down stream the stock wiring will not reach. You can delete these rear sensors, the front o2 sensors are what determines fueling. People have tried making their own O2 simulators, and almost all have failed. Rain/car wash will be the largest enemy of those. You can buy o2 simulators from http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/o2sim.html . If you have tuning software such as HP Tuners, you can do the fool proof way of deleting the rear o2 sensors. Having the rear sensors tuned out is by far the best way to insure you will never have a problem with them. This page will show you what sensors to turn off with HPT or other tuning software. http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124202
Other then tuning out those rear O2 sensors, your car does not require any further mandatory tuning. Now, if you want to see the full power increase from your headers,Ypipe, and catback, your going to need a tune. www.Tunedbyfrost.com Member name here is Frost. He can do a mail order tune that can delete your rear o2's, and tune for the headers/exhaust you just installed. Turn around on that is just a few days.
Bosch 13111 PN O2's have longer pigtails, and can be used without extensions.
Cost explanation
Headers can get expensive because the saying is still true. You get what you pay for. The stainless steel headers should last a lifetime and almost all will have great fitment and not hang low. SLP is arguably the worst header on the market. Their tuned length headers hang very low and constantly cause problems for lowered cars. Even standard ride height cars have problems with them. If your lowered or plan on lowering, chose your header and exhaust system wisely so you don't regret it and have to buy new. Again, with the more expensive headers, your pay for quality, fit and finish
Painted headers are always going to be the cheapest. The paint will chip/crack/peel after they see some good heat. Then they will rust, and then you will probably buy new headers. I would recommend at least buying headers that are ceramic coated. The coating will resist the common road chemicals and rain, for a while. Stainless Steel is the only way to get around it. If your looking for a budget header that will last a good long while, see above. See what falls in your price range.
Y-Pipe with built in Catalytic Converter -
These can sometimes keep you legal in the less strict states that still require some kind of emissions. However, there is a chance that you will have Catalytic converter inefficiency codes being thrown. The Catalytic converters that come with these Y-Pipes are smaller than stock and sometimes don't meet up with standards.
Tuned Length - Do not buy headers based off this idea. You'll probably end up with horrible ground clearance and no actual added benefit.
Stepped Headers - Headers can be stepped to the next size. Ex. 1 7/8 stepped to 2". Opt for this only if your engine can make use of it.
The 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8 battle - This will probably never stop being discussed. Personally, I would always go 1 7/8's on 346CI (LS1 5.7) The day I see back to back Dyno/Track runs where it proves that 1 3/4 gained power, I will edit this. Until then, buy 1 7/8's, they will make more power.
Running Open headers - Yo u can do this if you must or for some reason choose. There are some precautions you must take before doing so. Obviously you wont have any rear O2 sensors. But the front O2's will be seeing so much air coming from the back side of the header that it will see a major lean condition and will dump fuel trying to correct the false lean condition. Its also been said that the cold air after turning the car off can warp valves. I don't know if that true or holds any validity so don't hold me to it.