Noob with a bare 6.0 block...Should I even bother with build

So I'm new here and even though this is my second Tahoe the LS mod game is fairly new to me. All I know are the vids and stories i see on them and sure some I pay attention to, but I have been a blue oval guy all my life. But, a buddy of mine has a bare 6.0 block and all I know is its bare...in decent shape and he does have the main caps. I have no idea what it even came out of. So I got an idea that I'll build it...mild build at that. So here goes..
1.since it wont have the stock crank im thinking either a GM performance parts crank and scat/eagle cast....all look to be under 400 bucks
2.scat/eagle H or I beam iron rods since we don't have the stock fractured rods
3.pistons...haven't on forged or Hyper's..idk if it will need to be .30 over or if I will just go for the 4.065 6.2 bore
4.I have no idea on heads - something stock maybe 243's..maybe 799's
5.Cam I haven't decided but it will be healthy and plan on a pump gas N/A build
6.I want to stay EFI but as far as WHAT intake I have no idea
7. front drive the same....since I seriously have no idea what I'm going to put this in lol

I was going to put it in my Tahoe but nah keeping it mechanically stock, so would have to find a vehicle to throw it in.
LS swap into something NON gm?...Ford?...Japanese? who knows. I would be happy with a mild 450-500hp which I know is fairly easy with these things....but haven't seen anyone starting builds from a bare unknown block. Is it worth....will it be too much of a P.I.T.A.....sourcing all the small stuff a nightmare? IDK what do you guys think.

1. Stock crank or stroker = ok or better. Have the block checked by a machine shop. Make sure you don't need cyl bored or hone, same for the bearing journals and have inspected for cracks.

2 & 3. I have SCAT Forged I Beam Rods and DSS Forged Pistons in mine. Very affordable and quality parts, I wasn't making a 1000 hp build so they work great to 700hp according to the manufacture. Also look at rings too. Don't order pistons till you know what size bore the cyl are going to be after the machine shop.

4 - this is where you get many options. the 6L block will except both cathedral (LS1) and rectangular (LS3) ported heads. Each have pros and cons as well as send you in different directions to build. I ran out of budget when I built my 403 and settle on stock 243 heads. I'm putting down 450 to the wheels and have left about 75-100 hp off the table with my current heads and cam setup. If I went with LS3 style heads I could get a little more with a spec cam and tuning. Best advice is talk with an engine builder like Martin Smallwood (On FB) or Brian Tooley or TS&P.

5 - Cam - this like heads is where a engine builder can help you a lot. You may be looking for torque over HP.

6 - Intake - You have many, many options. With you putting it in a Tahoe you have plenty of room. Which one depends on the type of heads you get.

7 - Yes the front accessories will all built up.


Tuning - you will need. Find a good tuner in your area. It will make the difference between a long last build or a hole in the block.

Thanks dude! I doubt this build will go in my Tahoe as trying to make it quick/fast with 500-900lbs of stereo equipment is pointless in my book lol.
I most def plan on having the block checked before I purchase a single part. I had found a guy selling a set of new take out Gen4 rods, which Ive "heard" are good till anywhere from 600-1000hp lol, but I backed out of those because I then heard of they are the fracture cast rods and if not put with the proper crank you could have nothing but issue....but i've seen LOTS of people list those in builds with various cranks So IDK..im still learning lol.
I have been looking at loads of possible swap candidates so the front drive set-up may hold off till I actually pick a vehicle.
One question...this relucter wheel deal.... 24 tooth or 58 tooth..or whatever, does that basically dictate what ECU I use? I don't want to get a 24t crank and then my build need a 58t or whatever it is. Or am I thinking about that wrong?

Fracture casted rods are very common in aftermarket and stock rods.

When installing you have to know the orientation of the rod as it goes in. There usually is a beveled side and a flat side. The beveled side goes towards the crank and the flat side goes towards the other piston rod.

The reluctor wheel - does it dictate what ecm you can use? Yes as well as wire harness, cam and crank sensors as well.



If you can afford it you can't go wrong with the Holly stand alone system.

I have an lq9, factory pistons, rods and crank. Ported and polished 243 heads (From Thompson Motor Sports), ls6 intake and a cam spec'd by Geoff and EPS. 485hp and 456tq on the base tune on the engine dyno. Running about 11:1 compression with this set up. It pulls really nice in my Escalade.

When installing you have to know the orientation of the rod as it goes in. There usually is a beveled side and a flat side. The beveled side goes towards the crank and the flat side goes towards the other piston rod.









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